Creatitivity Challenge #9 (review of a nation) - VOTE HERE

NeuralDream · **NeuralDream**

You have until Sunday night Pacific Time to vote for the 9th creativity challenge (Review of a nation's units)

The participants:

Richter von Manthofen - AAM - United Kingdom

1939

2-Pounder Antitank Gun: Cost 6 – AI 3/3/3 AV 9/8/6 Speed 0; Def 3/3, Relocate 2, Quick Swivel
A staple light Antitank Gun. More than adequate for early war as the enemy’s tanks don’t have the high armour of later war tanks. Useable for 1939-1941 games. – Don’t forget to put that baby into overwatch.
40mm Bofors L60: Cost 9 – AI 11/10/9 AV 6/6/5 Speed 0; Def 3/3, Large, Antiair, Relocate 2, Enhanced Range 10
Infantry killer is the first thought that comes to mind if you think about this one. And you are right – While its German counterpart, the famous 88mm Flak 1936 is a threat to tanks, this Anti-air Gun is a threat to even the feared defence 5/5 infantry. But equally effective it is against planes, while the 88mm is only average in this sense. In early war games the Bofors can also hurt all German tanks. Additionally this unit has an effective range of 10, but this is no real benefit on standard maps. For nine points that’s a bargain buy. Only weakness is the low defence rating, so you should keep this one in a cover area.
Bedford QL 3-Ton: Cost 4 – AI -/-/- AV -/-/- Speed 3; Def 1/1, High Gear 2, Large Transport
Fast transport with great capacity – you can even tow a Bofors or similar big guns. Only drawback is that the Bedford (like all Trucks) is quite vulnerable.
Bren Machine Gunner: Cost 5 – AI 8/7/- AV 2/2/- Speed 1; Def 4/4, Covering Fire
This one is UK Basic Infantry for 1939, but with is above average mid range attacks it will see use even in later games. Covering Fire will make you want to go first. Drawback is the lack of Close Assault. A solid unit though at cost 5 its a bit overpriced compared to some other Soldiers.
Concealed Forward Observer: Cost 9 – AI 6/-/- AV 2/-/- Speed 2; Def 3/3, Spotter, Chatting on the Radio, Camouflaged
Considering the high cost paired with low defence and only the UK planes who benefit from this unit, I would say it won’t see much use. A typical spotter one might think. Though it has a valuable asset: Camouflaged might make it more survivable than its counterparts, but still 9 points are a hefty price.
Mathilda II: Cost 13 – AI 6/6/4 AV 9/8/6 Speed 2; Def 6/5, Superior Frontal Armour
A real Queen of the desert. With the cost of 13 points, an almost invulnerable armour and a gun that can reliable hit all early Axis Armour this one is a must for the early war. I am in love with this tank.
Royal Engineers: Cost 10 – AI 6/4/- AV 2/-/- Speed 1; Def 4/4, Close Assault 16, Demolition
A very specialised and expensive unit, it might not see much use. Though it has a strength in its very high Close Assault (89% for disruption on the heaviest German Tanks – 60% damage with Superior Armour – 4% chance of an instant kill). And you don’t have to worry about cover rolls. Paired with a reliable transport or in a defensive position this units destiny is to be a tank killer. If you don’t have to worry about obstacles this unit might be used only in 1942+ games (when Germany gets its first Tiger).
Spitfire Ace: Cost 17 – AI 9/7/- AV 4/3/- Speed A; Def 4/4, Aircraft, Ace, Agility
Look up the basic Spitfire below. If you can spare 2 points take this beauty, but both are worth their cost.
Supermarine Spitfire Mk. I: Cost 15 – AI 8/6/- AV 4/3/- Speed A; Def 4/4, Aircraft, Antiair, Agility
This is an excellent plane if you are facing enemy aircraft. Though the Bofors might do the same job better for less cost. But in early war games you might add one , as it can get to all those enemy units that hide out of sight from the Bofors. Agility gives this plane an edge over all other planes.

1940

Gurkha Riflemen: Cost 4 – AI 8/6/- AV 2/-/- Speed 1; Def 4/4, Hand to Hand 10, Close Assault 7
A solid rounded out Basic Infantry. Icing on the Cake is the Hand to Hand 10 ability as it makes this unit to a real danger to all infantry. Close Assault 7 also is above average for Infantry
Inspiring Hero: Cost 9 – AI 9/7/- AV 2/-/- Speed 1; Def 5/5, UK Hero, Close Assault 7, Initiative +1, Tally-Ho!
A cheaper, and stronger and more durable version of the Inspiring Lieutenant, only drawback the reduced initiative.
Inspiring Lieutenant: Cost 10 – AI 8/6/- AV 2/-/- Speed 1; Def 4/4, Close Assault 7, Initiative +2, Tally-Ho!
Basically that one is a Basic Infantry that can speed up himself and other Infantry and gives you a fair chance to control who goes first. its cost is a real drawback, especially when you compare it with his Hero Cousin.
Universal Carrier: Cost 10 – AI 7/6/5 AV 5/4/3 Speed 4; Def 2/2, Gun Transport, High Gear 1
A good transport for your Bofors (or later the British Anti Tank Guns). Low survivability and only mediocre attack values, though in early war builds it can still threaten the German vehicles.
Valentine I: Cost 17 – AI 5/5/4 AV 9/8/6 Speed 3; Def 5/5; Robust;
This tank will protect your infantry from enemy vehicles for the next two years. Its biggest asset is the high armour. Its attack values are reasonable high for the year too. Robust makes this even better than the Valentine II for only 1 point more.
Valentine II: Cost 16 – AI 5/5/4 AV 9/8/6 Speed 3; Def 5/5
This tank will protect your infantry from enemy vehicles for the next two years. Its biggest asset is the high armour. Its attack values are reasonable high for the year too.
Vickers Machine-Gun Team: Cost 8 – AI 9/8/6 AV 3/3/2 Speed 1; Def 4/4, Double Shot
A solid rounded out MG team. No special abilities, but no drawbacks.

1941

Crusader II: Cost 11 – AI 5/5/4 AV 9/8/6 Speed 4; Def 4/3, Vanguard, Prone to Breakdown
While the Crusader is not a bad tank for 1941 it will soon get outclassed in 1942. He should be used to hunt down enemy tanks and other vehicles and should do so adequately even in later years, but he will have problems if he meets medium to heavy tanks.
Defiant Paratrooper: Cost 8 – AI 9/7/- AV 2/-/- Speed 1; Def 5/5, Paratrooper, Close Assault 8
The Defiant Paratrooper is (for a Paratrooper) quite average. A bit better Close Assault than its German Counterpart.
Humber Scout Car: Cost 8 – AI 9/8/7 AV 2/2/2 Speed 5; Def 3/2, High Gear 2, Strike and Fade 2
Strike them fast and Strike them hard seems to be the motto for this Car. Excellent AI values that are useful even against Def 5 Infantry paired with the ability to move after an attack. That is if on a road 5 hexes. An unit destined to be used for the whole war.
M3 Stuart: Cost 15 – AI 8/8/6 AV 9/7/5 Speed 5; Def 4/3, All Guns Blazing
This is a Honey. Compared to the Crusader this tank is more costly, but gets a significant increase in AI value for a slightly decreased AV capability. Its still useful against most non-tank vehicles though. But the Stuart should be used primarily against Infantry as his All Guns Blazing ability gives him a second shot against those. Use them until the war is over. Maybe the best light tank of the war.
SMLE No.4 Rifle: Cost 3 – AI 8/6/- AV 2/-/- Speed 1; Def 4/4, Close Assault 6
There is nothing special around this Infantry, but you can’t find obvious weaknesses.
Sten SMG: Cost 4 – AI 10/7/- AV 2/-/- Speed 1; Def 4/4, Limited range 2, Close Assault 6
A great unit for close Combat. The obvious choice for defending the Objective as it can also reliably kill the dreaded 5/5 infantry at Close Range.

1942

6-Pounder Antitank Gun: Cost 9 – AI 3/3/3 AV 11/9/8 Speed 0; Def 3/3, Relocate 2
As every Antitank gun the 6-pounder has a weak defence and should be kept in cover. It works good against German light and most medium tanks, but needs a lucky shot to harm the Tiger. So its better you keep an Engineer handy this years.
Grant I : Cost 28 – AI 9/9/7 AV 9/7/5 Speed 4; Def 5/4, Additional Hull Mounted Cannon, Large Silhouette
At first look this Big Ass tank looks great, but to be honest its not that great compared to its younger brother the M4A1 Sherman. Same stats except no Special Abilities and a better Anti Vehicle gun than the Sherman. The Grant can attack twice a round which compensates a little. A bit overpriced this tank, but still the UK tank with the most punch for 1942 games
Hawker Typhoon: Cost 21 – AI 8/6/- AV 7/5/- Speed A; Def 4/4, Aircraft, Antiair, Rockets 8
The Typhoon is quite expensive, but can harm both Soldiers and (light) vehicles. Though it can be a threat to most German tanks as they are vulnerable to the rear. I would not choose the Typhoon in a 100 point game, but in larger games he has its value.
Morris Reconnaissance Car Mk II: Cost 7 – AI 8/8/7 AV 2/2/2 Speed 4; Def 2/2, High Gear 2, Strike and Fade 1, Experienced Recon
Why taking a Morris if you can take a Humber? Is Experienced Recon worth a lower speed, lower frontal armour and a lower attack value at close range? I doubt it. After all the main purpose of Armoured Cars is to get close to the enemy, shoot and be gone before the enemy shoots back. Use this strategy also on snipers and you don’t need experienced recon. The Morris is better against Snipers, I’d take one if I am expecting my opponent to bring one, but in every other situation – bring the Humber.

1943

Archer: Cost 21 – AI 5/5/4 AV 15/13/11 Speed 2; Def 3/3, Fixed Rear Gun, Extended Range 10, Strike and Fade 1
This tank combines high Attack value with moderate cost. Its relative low armour is compensated by strike and fade. This unit is highly recommended for antitank builds.
PIAT Gunner: Cost 7 – AI 4/-/- AV 9/-/- Speed 1; Def 4/4, Close Assault 10, Hard to Spot
The PIAT has a serious drawback, its a close range only unit. Tanks will outrun it and Infantry has not much to fear from it. The only time using this unit is when you have to protect an objective that provides ample cover. In any other cases the UK has better choices for anti tank warfare.

1944

17-Pounder Antitank Gun: Cost 16 – AI 3/3/3 AV 15/13/11 Speed 0; Def 3/3, Large, Relocate 2, Extended Range 10, Armour-Piercing Rounds
The 17-Pounder is a threat to all tanks as with a bit luck you can take out even the largest tank with Armour-Piercing Rounds without having to double its defence rating.
Churchill AVRE: Cost 25 – AI 12/6/4 AV 10/-/- Speed 2; Def 7/6, AVRE, Blast, Bombardment
The little brother in the Churchill family. An excellent tank for attacking fortified position as it virtually ignores and removes Obstacles. And a 12 close range attack with Bombardment and Blast strikes fear in any enemy Soldier. The funny thing is that once an enemy Soldier is in this units hex, attacking it will endanger the AVRE himself as he is not immune to its own attack (BLAST affects also friendly units). This tank attacks itself – and must use rear armour.
Churchill Crocodile: Cost 35 – AI 10/5/4 AV 13/11/9 Speed 2; Def 7/6, Flamethrower, Superior Armour.
one of the Best tanks in the game. High Armour and decent AV values alone would make it playable, but this unit shines when it comes to close range combat. With its Flamethrower its a danger to Vehicles and Soldiers alike. While other tanks run from infantry the Croc seeks them.
Cromwell IV: Cost 22 – AI 7/7/6 AV 14/11/9 Speed 4; Def 5/4, Vanguard
Another Example of British fast tanks the Cromwell is almost a Sherman, - Lower AI values and a little plus against Vehicles for almost the same points would make it sub-par, but if you stay within nations it is a good choice.
Gloster Meteor: Cost 17 – AI 9/6/- AV 4/3/- Speed A; Def 4/4, Jet, Aircraft, Antiair
The Meteor is an nice addition to the Royal Air Force, though I still prefer the Spitfire. The drawback is that it has low anti vehicle stats and can’t attack Soldiers in certain terrain.
Mk. VII Tetrarch: Cost 12 – AI 6/6/4 AV 9/8/6 Speed 4; Def 2/2, Gliderborne
The Tetrarch seems a bit outdated, which he is, but in a paradrop scenario it makes sense to use this tank. Don’t expect it to live and see the games end. For 12 points it might be worth his points if he takes out enemy non-tank vehicles.
Sherman Firefly: Cost 29 – AI 7/7/6 AV 15/13/11 Speed 4; Def 5/4
This tank has good punch against tanks, but lacks the Sherman M4A1 excellent AI values, so 8 points over the Sherman is not worth it. Hint. Use the Canadian variant.

1945

Centurion A41: Cost 50 – AI 8/7/6 AV 16/14/11 Speed 3; Def 7/4, Robust, Superior Armour, Extended Range 12, Armour-Piercing Rounds
This tank is best compared with the SS-Panther Ausf. G: a little slower, but better chances to make an movement roll, but can move only at speed 1 while disrupted (Panther full speed), better front armour, better close range anti Infantry attacks and the Armour-Piercing Rounds, the package for 1 point more – I would use that baby.
Comet A-34: Cost 40 – AI 7/7/6 AV 15/13/11 Speed 4; Def 6/3, High Gear 1, Battlefield Awareness, Superior Armour 2
If I compare the Centurion with the SS-Panther this one has to be compared with the Panther D. First impression says same attack values and speed, but the Panther has better rear armour and Extended range 12, the Comet is faster on roads and battlefield awareness prevents vehicles to disengage safely. And a 5 points more. this time the Panther D is a winner.
M22 “Locust”: Cost 13 – AI 6/6/4 AV 9/7/6 Speed 4; Def 3/2, High Gear 1, Gliderborne
The Locust like the Tetrarch seems a bit outdated. He is – compared with the Tetrarch a little weaker against other Vehicles, but has a better front armour and with High Gear is faster on roads, all for a point more.

EvilKobra - WAS - Germany

Overview
The German Navy was a small one, and as such it does not offer the same level of variety as other nations' as regards its units. Worse, the class limits are rather restrictive, meaning surface swarm tactics will simply be unavailable to the historical Kriegsmarine player. The other remarkable features are the lack of fighters, the pro-active bias of most units (which tend to be stronger in offense than in defense), and the superb U-boat synergies. All in all, the Kriegsmarine is better played aggressively, threatening all objectives, gunning down the lesser enemy ships at once and keeping the rest at bay with U-boats.

Battleships
BISMARCK
Cost: 53
Limit: 2 (Bismarck, Tirpitz)
Attack: Good
Defense: Good
Notes: A decent battleship. The Vital Armor of 15 sets it apart from all the other Armor-8 ships, and increases its survivability noticeably.
Tactics: Same as any other battleship. Charge in, blow up stuff. What is most relevant about Bismarck is its high Vital Armor, which makes Bismarck more comfortable at short range where normal hits are more or less guaranteed, and vital hits tend to be decisive. Its superb secondary gunnery also lets it fend off enemy destroyers and cruisers with relative ease, so don't be afraid to go toe-to-toe with the enemy fleet.

SCHARNHORST
Cost: 38
Limit: 2 (Scharnhorst, Gneisenau)
Attack: Fair
Defense: Fair
Notes: Aside from being the most durable of the battlecruisers, Scharnhorst shines in its secondary armament and AA defense.
Tactics: While relatively well armored for its size, Scharnhorst cannot face a proper battleship on equal grounds. If you suspect the enemy will go BB-heavy, it's usually best just not to pick it. Against carriers, however, Scharnhorst is your best bet. With an AA of 8 and a low point cost, a pair of these can punch through the enemy's front line and attack the carriers in the rearguard. In larger games, a group made up of Bismarck, Scharnhorst and Galster is a nigh-impenetrable fortress against air attack.

Cruisers
ADMIRAL GRAF SPEE
Cost: 21
Limit: 3 (Adm. Graf Spee, Adm. Scheer, Lützow)
Attack: Excellent
Defense: Good
Notes: Aptly nicknamed "pocket battleship" by the British, this is the king of cruisers - arguably the single best cruiser in Set I. Its defense is above average, and its range-4 main and range-3 secondary gunnery attacks are by far the most powerful in its class, with only Baltimore even coming close. A short-range torpedo attack is the icing on the cake.
Tactics: Three Graf Spees can be the backbone of a cruiser mini-swarm fleet. When escorted by Galsters and U-boats, they can efficiently threaten all objectives and easily wipe out anything that isn't a battleship (tempting though it may be to attack these, the guns are better used vitalling smaller targets). Use the range advantage wisely - it will feel like holding a flailing midget at arm's length. Just don't let the enemy battleships take a shot at it.

KÖLN
Cost: 11
Limit: 3 (Köln, Königsberg, Karlsruhe)
Attack: Fair
Defense: Very Poor
Notes: Not as good as it might seem. Its low survivability makes it a poor candidate for an objective rush, so Lead the Attack feels like a bit of a waste.
Tactics: If the enemy has battleships or a large air force, forget about rushing the objectives. Instead, if there is some cover available, you could try flanking the main force and harassing the opposing destroyers. Ultimately, though, Köln is often best used to accompany its larger cousins as AA and anti-destroyer escort.

Destroyers
Z20 KARL GALSTER
Cost: 8
Limit: 6 (Z17 to Z22)
Attack: Average
Defense: Average
Notes: An otherwise unremarkable ship, the Galster boasts one of the best SAs of Set I: Close Escort. That alone suffices to make this destroyer one of the staple units in the Kriegsmarine.
Tactics: Always attach a Galster to each surface group; this will help immensely with the AA fire, as well as giving the enemies another target to worry about. A three-Galster group can also be effective as an ASW picket and torpedo platform.

Auxiliaries
NORDMARK
Cost: 5
Limit: 5 (Nordmark, Dithmarschen, Uckermark, Franken, Ermland)
Attack: Excellent
Defense: Excellent
Notes: By far the best Auxiliary in Set I, the Nordmark has the gunnery and AA power of a destroyer, with twice the survivability. It is faster, stronger and more durable than the other Auxiliaries - but it also has a useless SA: while being able to repair a friendly ship seems good at first glance, the requirement that the damaged ship not make any attacks for one turn is an excessive price to pay in most circumstances.
Tactics:Nordmark makes a great filler, as well as a superb counter to a destroyer swarm. The repair SA is rarely useful, but it may still trick your opponents into wasting shots on Nordmark instead of more valuable targets.

Submarines
U-510
Cost: 11
Limit: None
Attack: Excellent
Defense: Average
Notes: The workhorse of the Kriegsmarine, the U-boat boasts almost unrivaled firepower provided it operates in numbers. Its low cost and dependable SA set it apart from the rest of the crowd, and the synergy with the Kondor is the icing on the cake.
Tactics: Strength in numbers. Make full use of the Wolfpack SA, and try to deny with at least two U-boats any objective you can't take. Six torpedoes at range two are a powerful deterrent.

Aircraft
JU-87B STUKA
Subtype: Dive Bomber (land based)
Cost: 7
Limit: None
Attack: Average
Defense: Average
Notes: An unremarkable unit with limited usefulness.
Tactics: Use them in pairs to cripple or sink the enemy's destroyer screen early on, minimizing the threat to your U-boats. Damaged or crippled cruisers also make good Stuka targets later on in the game. But, on the whole, the best advice is usually to take Kondors instead.

FW-200 KONDOR
Subtype: Patrol Bomber (land based)
Cost: 6
Limit: None
Attack: Very Good
Defense: Poor
Notes: One of the best weapons in the German arsenal - but risky if the enemy has fighters. The Antiship Missile SA can shift the balance of the game from turn one. Its ASW attack, though weak, means it can harass enemy subs, which will then pose less of a threat to yours. Last but certainly not least, the Pinpointer SA gives a boost to your torpedoes, which -combined with the Wolfpack SA- makes the U-boats truly fearsome killers.
Tactics: Don't forget the Kondor is primarily a support unit for your U-boats. Use the Antiship Missiles as early as turn one, targeting the enemy's destroyer screen: each attack has a good chance (just under 40%) of sinking a destroyer, and even if it does not it will almost certainly cripple it, slowing it down enough that it will not arrive in time to the battle. After spending the missiles, keep them away from enemy ships, focusing on the ASW and Pinpoint abilities.

swarbs - WAS - Italy

Hamstrung by the lack of air support of any kind and by the worst submarine in the game, the Italian Navy is often underused. However, the Italian surface fleet does have its strengths, and when playing games confined to early war units the Italian navy can certainly hold its own. When playing pure Italian forces, challenge your opponent to an early war game and have fun. With one battleship to absorb punishment, take some smoke and a variety of torpedo threats (destroyer, MTB, sub) and have a good time.

Battleships:
Vittorio Veneto – 49 points, 1940
There is no battleship more normal than the Vittorio Veneto, but this doesn’t make her weak. Unhampered by any slow SA and lacking a flag rating VV, works well with the smoke SA of the Italian destroyers. It is always nice to have a vessel that can both dish and take punishment, and VV works as well as any battleship for the points you pay. The downside of her low cost is that in a 100 point game, an enemy that captures two objectives need not sink her (as they would a BB over 50 points) to win the game.
Recommendation: Take it, if you’re playing the Italians, it’s what you’ve got.

Cruisers:
Bolzano – 18 points, 1940
Bolzano is decent heavy cruiser by her stats. Average gunnery, a decent secondary battery, reasonable AA (especially for the Italians) and a torpedo battery combine with solid cruiser armor to make Bolzano reasonably formidable. However, her price reflects both this and the game designer’s overestimation of the worth of cruisers. Use smoke and flank speed to keep Bolzano safe until her torpedoes can come in handy, using her guns to pick off enemy light craft.
Recommendation: Unless you’re facing a sure destroyer swarm, Bolzano, though pretty, should stay in port.

Duca D’Aosta – 12 points, 1940
With the same armor, AA and torpedo battery as the Bolzano, the Duca D’Aosta is a much better value for the Italians, and just as effective as Bolzano in doing just about everything except fighting off enemy destroyers. Like other Italian ships, D’Aosta is short-changed in the SA department, having none, but still serves as a viable option in threatening objectives away from the main enemy force.
Recommendation: Why not? Stick one with VV and provide AA support.

Destroyers:
Luca Tarigo – 8 points, 1940
The Luca Tarigo possesses perhaps the two best destroyers SA’s in the game. Smoke can be outstanding, as already mentioned, to even the playing field against a more potent enemy force, especially in conjunction with the VV. Sub Hunter is a great SA to have, despite the fact that Tarigo has only 3 ASW dice to throw per turn. With enemy subs in the right place, use sub-hunter to get a third space of movement, dashing forward to close torpedo range or lay smoke ahead of your other ships. Though other axis destroyers have better ASW capability, sub-hunter may make Luca Tarigo the best axis anti-sub platform, and is essential for Italian sub-hunting because of the likelihood of losing initiative.
Recommendation: Take a bunch. Without air cover they’ll probably evaporate quickly, but smoke gives the Italians a solid advantage that shouldn’t be neglected.

Torpedo Boats:
Motor Torpedo Boat – 7 points, 1940
Probably the best offensive weapon in the Italian arsenal, motor torpedo boats give a lucky Italian player a chance to bring down any enemy. If the enemy has fighters, well then at least he’ll be killing these instead of your Luca Tarigos. But without fighters, a British player, the most common Italian adversary, will have to play very dangerous games around your Torpedo Boats. Combined with the new small-ship evasion rules, the SA High Speed Evasion means that even without safe island sectors on the board the MTB has a chance to strike. MTB’s dashing out of smoke filled sectors is also appealing. Take advantage of the new submarine harassment rules by sticking a few next to a sub (note: especially if a sub is next to an island sector where your MTB’s can hole up).
Recommendation: Because they lack so many other options, all pure Italian fleets should have a pair.

Submarines:
Ambra – 9 points, 1940
While it’s the cheapest sub in the game, Ambra is also the worst. Its most crippling feature is its single hull point, but this isn’t compensated by high attacks or cool SA’s. Destroyer Killer, at best, will simply offset the harassment penalty of local destroyer, but will generally not be used since local destroyers should have no trouble killing Ambra first. Ambra is perhaps best used in an anti-sub role. Opponents may yield ground with their subs to charging Ambras because they don’t want to trade a 12 or 13 point unit for one which costs just 9 points. Used in conjunction with MTB harassment Ambra’s may even survive to kill more than one enemy sub. This, of course, assumes that your Ambra’s haven’t been killed by enemy ASW aircraft, which is their main vulnerability.
Recommendation: Any player would be remiss to neglect giving their opponent some underwater threat, but unless you are playing a pure Italian build, that threat shouldn’t be the Ambra.

Aquarius - WAS - France

While the French only have 3 units in the first set, that does not prevent them from being a viable force, particularly in early-war scenarios. Obviously, the game is likely to be more balanced if you are playing against the Germans or Italians instead of the Americans, due to the complete lack of air cover.

Richelieu: 54 points, 1940
It is one of the better battleships in the game, and one of only 2 with Extended Range 5. The Richelieu has one of the highest defenses in the game: 9/15/5. Its gunnery attacks are not on the level of the Iowa or Yamato, but are as good as a Bismarck or Vittorio. The secondary and tertiary guns help a lot in fending off destroyers. Its AA value of 7 is slightly below par for a battleship, but still nothing to sneeze at. The SA on this ship, though, is what really sets it apart. Excellent Spotting can be used to enhance the gunnery of the Richelieu to an almost Washington-like level.
Recommendation: Take it. In a French fleet, it is your only piece with any real gunnery power.

Gloire: 14 points, 1939
A pretty standard cruiser, the Gloire fills its role well. It has medium-heavy cruiser gunnery, but its Excellent Spotting SA can boost the gunnery to a Boise-like level. Its torpedoes, 1/1/1/0, are slightly substandard for a cruiser, but are still effective against battleships. Its AA of 6 is cruiser standard, and will probably abort a Stuka.
Recommendation: Take it. Use this unit to kill off the enemy destroyers to keep your Richelieu safe from torpedo attacks. Plus, you only have 3 units to choose from.

Le Terrible: 9 points, 1939
At first glance, this may seem like your run-of-the-mill destroyer. Its ASW value of 4 has a decent chance of hurting a sub, but the lack of a sub-hunter SA makes it unlikely that it will be able to use this attack. It has above-average gunnery for a destroyer, 5/5/4/0, and standard destroyer armor. Once again, however, the SA is what sets this unit apart. High-Speed run can be used to get this unit into torpedo range of a battleship, or, if you are feeling bold, you can use it to sprint back to the enemy’s carriers.
Recommendation: Take it. The only French piece with an ASW value and the High-Speed Run SA make it a valuable unit.

The_Lucky_Y - WAS - JAPAN

Battleships:

IJN Yamato 70 Points, available since 1942 the best battleship that you can put into your fleet,armor 10 and vital 16 makes her hard to hit from surface sources,and its the core of every battleship heavy IJN Build.
The drawback is the high cost , the low AA of 7,only ER 4 and under historical limits you can only float two of them.
Close the range and open fire is the main duty against surface units.

IJN Kongo 35 points , available since 1941, the expensive Cruiser, the Armor of 6 and vital of 12 hurts a lot in combination with no Torpedo Defense. Real Battleships should have Torpedo defense.
In Carrier Builds this unit does have its best duty due to the low cost and the average Main gunnery.
The historical limit of 4 does help in bigger fleets that need more surface Firepower.

Carriers:

IJN Akagi 27 Points, available since 1941, this carrier has three different expert bonus, a flag bonus of 2 and good main armament in combination with armor 5 vital 11. The real drawback is the high cost and the unique ship status because the IJN build only one of this type.
In a Torpedo heavy build with Kates this unit is a must.

IJN Shokaku 20 points, available since 1941, the workhorse in every IJN carrier build and the expert bomb +2 make the Vals useful against every surface ship except battleships. The flag bonus of 1 helps out a little bit.
never let your carriers alone without air cover, the low armor of 4 and the vital of 10 does not hold off very much and under historical limits you can only use two of them.

IJN Shoho 9 points, available since 1941, in bigger carrier fleets you need more fighters and this unit can support one fighter wit the exp dogfight SA Note that you need AA umbrella for this unit because armor 1 vital 6 did not even hold off damage from a strafing fighter.
Drawback? did I say something about armor 1 in combination with three hull points? Ok you can float two of them under historical limits.

Cruisers:

IJN Myoko 24 points, available since 1941,if you can,buy a Kongo instead,if you want a Long lance Platform purchase 2 Yukikazes instead, if you really want a cruiser switch to Tone. The only advantage is the main gunnery value and that you can float 4 of them under historical limits.
The armor rating of 4 in combination with hull 3 and vital 9 speaks on its own.

IJN Tone 23 points, available since 1941, the cruiser with the best SA in the game.In addition with 7 AA dice this unit should be in every IJN build if you can afford the points. Against bomber heavy builds this unit is only
bomber bait, the armor rating of 4 with vital 9 and hull 3 did not help much more. The Long Lance torpedos may give the extra punch that the main guns did not have and you can only have two of them in your fleet with historical limits.

IJN Jintsu 19 points, available since 1941, Writing Cruiser on the stat card make this unit not being a cruiser, the armor of 3 and vital 8 is crap for that point cost and even the flag bonus of 1 does make the things not better, use this unit only if you can waste 19 Points.
Historical limits stats that you can float three of them.

Destroyers:

IJN Yukikaze 12 points,available since 1941, a very expensive destroyer with poor ASW capacity but the best ASW that the IJN player can purchase. The 5 AA dice are average.
The Long Lance torpedos are the real advantage of this unit, close in to a enemy Battle ship, fire the torps and pray for 6, the only torpedos that neuters the TD of the big units.
remember the low armor of 2 in combination of vital 7 , sometimes the 12 points goes down earlier than you expect.
19 units can you float under historical limits.

IJN Type 13 Subchaser 4 points, available since 1941,the only thing to purchase this unit is that you have only have 4 points left over or you play
a special scenario. Otherwise put it under the Jintsu pile in your card box.

Submarines:

IJN I-19 13 points, available since 1941, the only submarine that can fire torpedos at range 3 and the SA finish him off doubles the firepower at this range, never build a fleet without this unit , it is the best torpedo platform that you can purchase. Only the cost of 13 points is the drawback.

Aircraft:

Zeke, 6 points , available since 1941, you can fly without vals, you can fly without kates, you can fly without bettys, but you never left home port without purchasing zekes, never. A must in every fleet that have to fight against other airforces.

Kate 13 points, available since 1941, 3 torpedo dice , the drawback next to the high cost is the low ASW dice of 2 and the low armor rating of 5.
Once per game you have 6 bomb dice.

Val 10 points, available since 1941, 8 bomb dice , the drawback is that you need the shokaku buff for hitting heavy targets like cruisers or carriers. Press the attack SA helps sometimes against heavvy ship AA but remember the low vital armor of 7.

Betty 6 points, available since 1941, land based patrol bomber that cannot be based on carriers,the 2 torpedo dice or the 2 ASW dice make the things not very better and even the 6 bomb roll that can be used once per game does not do very much against bigger units than a destroyer. If you can purchase a zeke instead.

Auxilliary:

IJN Kinai Maru, 4 points, available since 1941 only use this unit in special scenarios or as Filler unit.

Angelofdeath - AAM - USA

Overview :
In Axis and Allies Miniatures, the USA is one of the strongest forces in the game. My personal view is that they tie the lead as ‘best force’ with the Germans. The USA is superior in infantry, while the Germans are superior in armor. The USA is a complete and self supporting force. It doesn’t need allied help to win. Note though, that a little UK or Canadian help is always useful (especially Tally Ho and the Eagle Eyed NCO). The USA has every unit variation in its arsenal, usually several times.

Rating system :
I rate units with 1 to 5 stars, as in 5 stars being an almost default choice for an army, and 1 star being a rather useless choice in most combats. So if you just started the game, try to limit the number of 1 and 2 star units you take. They are rather hard to use.

Infantry :
Infantry is the workhorse of any force. You need it to hold objectives, go where tanks can’t go, draw a frontline, etc. The USA has a lot of high quality infantry. Most have interesting special abilities (SA’s) that make them worth their usual slightly higher cost.

Untested Recruits (2 points, 1942) : 4 stars
For two points, untested recruits are the best cheap infantry there is. 4/4 defense, 8/5/0 infantry attack and even a moderate ability to take out vehicles. The only disadvantage in this unit is that it has a hard time recovering from disruption. So, don’t ever rely on this unit to hold a front line. But if you need units to 1. Deny paradrops , 2. Guard ammo/fuel/HQ , 3. Make a suicide flanking attack or frontal assault (they are expendable!) or 4. Hold the 2nd line, these are your cheap alternatives to real soldiers. Note that in dense terrain, their limited defense and limited medium attack value is not much of a problem, so they do pretty well there.

Bazooka (4 points, 1942) : 2 stars
The bazooka is close range tank killer unit. It has no real ability against infantry, and only short ranged ability against medium tanks (10 close assault, 9 close range, 4 medium range). Light tanks and vehicles are a target at medium range for the Bazooka, which can come in handy. Bazooka’s look like key units, but need to be catered with speed or cover to be really useful. Their range and speed is low, so they only do well in limited circumstances. Also, their close assault is too limited to take out the very heavy tanks. To take away the speed disadvantage, it’s a good idea to mount up the bazooka. A bazooka + M5 Halftrack (with fighting platform) is a very serious threat to enemy medium tanks. A bazooka + Jeep is a cheap combo that is easy to forget but problematic to ignore, if used right. But all considered, the bazooka is a unit of limited use.

M1 Garand Rifle (4 points, 1942) : 5 stars
The M1 Garand Rifle might look like your average GI joe at first glance. But it’s a hell of a soldier. If a commander is near it gets a +1 dice to any attack (stars and stripes SA). This means a medium attack against soldiers of 8 dice (good enough to disrupt and sometimes kill a soldier), and a close assault against vehicles of 8 dice (good enough to disrupt a Panther in close assault). Both are very good. Few soldiers can do this. So combining this soldier with a commander (the Red Devil captain adds extra benefits here) is a good idea. The M1 Garand Rifle is the default choice for a US Soldier. Don’t sacrifice them too easily (that’s what the recruits are for), but save them for what they are good at : medium range firefights, holding ground (from cover preferably) and destroying tanks in close assault.

BAR Gunner (4 points, 1942) : 5 stars
The BAR gunner is one of the most hated infantry pieces in the game. If you manage to gain the initiative and choose to go first, the BAR gunners can turn an ugly situation around. If they –attack- an enemy soldier, that soldier cannot fire back (covering fire SA). This ability works even when the BAR gunner is disrupted, and has a lot of uses. The big downside to a BAR gunner is that it has no real ability against vehicles. It can take out a truck, kubelwagen and maybe a halftrack at short and medium range, but don’t ask it to attack a light tank, because it won’t work. So a line consisting only of BAR gunners will get massacred by tanks. Mix them with the previously named M1 Garands and you will the basis of a solid front.
Best uses of the BAR gunner when you have the initiative : spraying M42 machineguns, PAK40, Nebelwerfers, Mortars (and other soldier/artillery) with covering fire so they can’t fire, thus saving a lot of lives. Mounting a BAR gunner on a M5 Halftrack and (fighting platform) use covering fire on forward positions you can’t normally reach. The same can be achieved with a Jeep as well (but why bother if you can have a M5 for only 3 points more).
Best uses for the BAR gunner if you don’t have the initiative (this works best in expanded rules) : spray a specific central enemy area with covering fire so the targets loose defensive fire. Move a sacrificial lamb forward (bye bye recruit), thus 1. Enabling enfilade fire (expanded rules only) and 2. Creating extra line of sight for improved indirect fire (only for the unscrupulous). This is a good way to break down enemy defensive positions that are otherwise very hard to take out.

Marine Riflemen (4 points, 1942) : 4 stars
This unit is a good choice for holding a line. Marines excel at defensive fire (Gung Ho SA : +1 to defensive fire dice). Against the banzai charging Japanese, this ability is invaluable, as SNLF fanatics (aka Jedi knights) will otherwise kill you in close assault if you don’t watch out. It’s also good for trapping vehicles, as vehicles trying to move out of your hex will get a defensive fire attack if the riflemen are able to attack. If you use platoons (Expanded rules), Marine Riflemen are great to have. The whole platoon is great to have. But all considering a smart opponent will try to avoid defensive fire. The Garand and the Bar gunner are usually better.

Buffalo Soldiers (4 points, 1942) : 4 stars
Reliable, tough, able. This unit maintains steady attacking fire even when disrupted (tough SA). Unfortunately it cannot defensive fire when disrupted. That would make the unit worth at least 5 stars. Buffalo soldiers are good for steady attacks from cover. If you want to attack a position, and expect heavy defensive fire, these guys are a great choice.

Thompson Gunner (4 points, 1942) : 4 stars
Lots of dice, versatile. Thompson gunners share the Gung Ho ability with the Marines. With their extra dice they are even better at taking out charging SNLF fanatics. And they are also good at taking out enemy tanks at close range. So again an excellent choice. Their only problem is their limited range of 2. They are completely unable to participate in medium range firefights. So watch out when you use these guys. Bring them forward quickly by trucks if you have to. But they do very well if you get close to the enemy.

Marines M2-2 Flamethrower (5 points, 1944 (!!) : 4 stars
Flamethrowers are a gift from god. They can kill both tanks and infantry reliably. They even ignore cover saves. There is just one disadvantage: flamethrowers have an effective range of 1. They need to be next to their target in order to do something. So, handle with care. To negate this disadvantage, mount the Flamethrower in a Jeep or a Halftrack, or put it on your M4 Sherman Easy Eight. If you team up with the UK, keep those Tally Ho commanders near the flamethrower for some special actions (like blowing up an enemy tank that thought it was safe). I find my opponents targeting BAR gunners and Flamethrowers first, usually. Flamethowers are awesome but for their range.

Mortar M2 (6 points, 1942) : 4 stars
Another great USA infantry unit. Actually this ought to be soldier/artillery. The mortar M2 is great because it is mobile, cheap and because it does good damage at long range. I prefer to use this weapon for taking out gun crews at long range, and things in the open. Occasionally even a halftrack gets damaged by this mortar. People tend to forget the long range (8) of the mortar, and the lethality it represents to infantry. Its downside is its lower defensive value (3/3) and it being completely crap in a direct firefight. So keep it away from direct contact unless a big gain is possible by that (like enfilade firing the crap out of someone).

"Red Devil" Captain (7 points, 1942) : 5 stars
This captain is a good basic soldier. It also provides a reasonable amount of initiative to your force (+2, which is ok, but not as good as the German +3). But this captain also has the Pinpointer SA. This SA is great combined with almost every unit. In small games I would combine the "Red Devil" Captain with M1 Garand Riflemen as the Garands will benefit from Stars and Stripes (1 extra die) and benefit from the -1 to coversaves. But using this pinpointer along with mortars makes for some interesting firepower as well. The M2 mortar is the light choice in this regard. Even better is combining it with the Mortar M1, which is lethal, has extremely long range and can somehow hit with pinpoint accuracy anywhere a USA soldier has Line of Sight to. Some might call this use ‘cheesy’. I’d agree. But it is effective nonetheless.

Rangers (7 points, 1942) : 3 stars
Excellent soldiers. Great defense. Unique unit type (soldier/spotter !). If you ever consider using the excellent M8 75mm Pack Howitzers, you will have to use Rangers as well. Rangers can navigate terrain with ease (with the Lead the way SA), can take a lot of punishment (5/5 defense!!) and fight well. But they are pretty expensive, at 7 points. A M5 Halftrack is the same price, and the M8 Pack Howitzer is cheaper. So chose wisely. I’d only take them in case I field M8’s as well, as you must have actual spotters to use those.

Resourceful Hero (8 points, 1942) : 4 stars
Very strong unit. Unique SA (improvisation). The fun about Heroes is that they are tough (they ignore face up disruption counters, so they are extremely hard to take out under the advanced rules). Also you can deploy them whenever you need them. If you are about to blow up a King Tiger or Nashorn in close assault, ‘spawning’ a Resourceful Hero is a brilliant action. The improvisation SA will enable the hero to use the attack values of the destroyed object as long as the hero doesn’t move. Such a thing can turn the tables, and turn a desperate situation into a win. For that reason only, don’t underestimate this hero. But, heroes are a limited affair (1 per 100 points max, or combined with para’s and partisans an 2 in 100 points max in the expanded rules). So you shouldn’t build a battle plan on this unit.

Screaming Eagle Paratroopers (9 points, 1944) : 5 stars
Troops don’t get much tougher then Screaming Eagle paratroopers. They can paradrop almost anywhere you want. And they are very hard to kill with their Hard Charger SA, which removes disruption counters at the end of the movement phase. i.e this unit has a little built in SS Hauptsturmfuhrer. These para’s are brilliant for taking out (or harassing) positions behind enemy lines. They are also great for reinforcing positions under fire. These troops are the best of the best and under the expanded rules I always try to take as many as I can. If you want to get –anything- done, send in these guys.

Hunting Sniper (9 points, 1942) : 3 stars
This is a good sniper unit, but with limited use. It excels at killing gun crews (7 dice crack shot at all ranges, 5 dice against anything else). Gun crews are a great target, and the usual enemy (Germany) has a lot of good guns. If you use it, stay in cover and priority target Pak40’s and Nebelwerfers. But at 9 points, the Hunting Sniper is very expensive. Mortars are more versatile, and kill just as well. The M8 pack howitzer is also great at killing Gun crews (and a lot of other things), but it costs a lot less. So while the Hunting Sniper is good at what it does, the competition is killing it. In larger battles, taking a Hunting Sniper will usually pay off, if only by intimidation. Put it in a forward position, announce its specialty, and see how quickly those gun crews will find better hunting grounds.

M1919 Machine Gun (9 points, 1942) : 3 stars
A capable and expensive machinegun. If you compare it with similar use weapons (infantry killing), like the Quad, the Mortars and the M8 pack howitzer, it’s an ok choice. But hardly superior. The double shot ability is good, and the attack values trump the Quad at long range, but the Quad can be put in overwatch and can take out aircraft. But if you want to advance and fire, the M1919 Machinegun is clearly better.

Screaming Eagle Captain (11 points, 1944) : 4 stars
This is a difficult unit to review. It has two uses : a non combat use with +3 initiative so you can compete with the German initiative rolls , and a frontline use adding +1 dice to all adjacent para’s. If you put the SE Captain in the frontline, it will die soon enough. So I would advice putting at least one SE Captain behind cover near some defensive SE para’s. As long as the captain lives you can benefit from its superior initiative, which can make or break your use of BAR gunners and Strike and Fade vehicles. All in all, for a +3 initiative unit the SE captain is a bit overpriced. But in battles of 200+ points, you will need that. (Add an HQ for a more reliable effect.)

Soldier / Artillery :

37mm Gun M3 (5 points, 1942) : 4 stars
This light antitank gun is only 1 point more expensive then a Bazooka, and way more useful. You can put it on overwatch. You can move it by Jeep (light artillery SA). You can even fire it from an M5 halftrack. It might not be able to take out medium and heavy tanks, but for its points you cannot blame it. Note though that at point blank range it can take out a medium tank with a bit of luck. Personally I would favor this gun over a bazooka any day.

M8 75mm Pack Howitzer (6 points, 1942) : 5 stars
This artillery piece is so versatile, you wouldn’t know how to fight without it once you start to use it. It can take out infantry at long range (extanded range 12), even with indirect fire (though you need a real spotter for that). It can take out light vehicles with ease. And it can relocate, and thus it can use overwatch. For only 6 points this unit is a no brainer. Use a lot of these and see how your opponent reacts. Add a Red Devil Captain for its pinpointer ability. Use a few Rangers to direct the indirect fire. The versatility of this weapon is awesome.

M20 75mm Recoilless Rifle (10 points, 1945) : 3 stars
This 75mm weapon has good attack values. Another great feature is its light artillery status. This means you can upgun a M5 Halftrack considerably with this weapon. You can turn the halftrack into a tank killer by mounting the M20 on it. But the M20 has two big downsides. It costs 10 points, which is a big pricetag for such a weapon. And it has the Backblast disadvantage, which means it cannot take coversaves that turn if it fires. Although the combination of the M5 Halftrack and the M20 has a lot of potential, I didn’t actually use it yet as there are other, better alternatives. Like the Flamethrower M5.

Quad 50 (10 points, 1943) : 4 stars
The Quad is the toughest antiair ground unit in the game. It’s not the best : the Bofors is better, but it is the toughest and the most versatile one. The Quad 50 functions exactly like a machinegun (double shot), but can relocate as well (enabling overwatch). Also it’s a very capable anti air unit (9/8/6) which can take down enemy units with great reliability (thanx to double shot). The best thing is that you can use its massive medium firepower against enemy soldiers as well, without having to fear annihilation. The Quad 50’s defense of 4/4 makes it a very good unit.

M1 81mm Mortar (12 point, 1942) : 5 stars
This is the best unit of the entire game. I repeat. This is the best unit of the entire game. No doubt about it. It’s so good, you will want to limit its use considerably in friendly games. The reason this thing is so good is threefold. Improved Direct Fire, Shrapnel 2 and Extended Range 16. Add to that the pinpointer ability of your average Red Devil captain, and see your enemy weep. For days.
The worst offending special ability of the M1 Mortar is the Improved Indirect Fire. This ability means ANY USA unit can spot for this unit. Even aircraft. Or tanks that move forward in the movement phase and decide to move back in the assault phase. You don’t want to know what I massacred with the M1. Nebelwerfers, Machineguns, Hauptsturmfuhrers, SS Panzergrenadiers. My opponent resorted to using only Mauser Kars so I couldn’t target anything special anymore. So, if you want to go for a powergamers slugfest, and damn yourselves to boring fights for the rest of your gaming sessions, use this weapon to the extreme. Anything infantry will perish.

3” Gun M5 (12 points, 1942) : 3 stars
The hardest hitting USA soldier/antitank weapon. This weapon is pretty good against Mark IV and lower German tanks, and will eat any Japanese tank alive. The downsides of this weapon are its lack of toughness, versatility, its rather limited range (only 8) and the incompetence of firepower against the heavier targets (like Panthers and Tigers). I’d say, borrow some equipment from the UK (an Archer or a 17 pounder) that will do the same job better. Or use tanks instead. The M36 and the Pershing are great tank killers, and well led Shermans do an equally capable job too.

Aircraft :

P-40 Tomahawk (13 points, 1942) : 4 stars
A cheap US fighter. This aircraft is great for spotting (for the M1 mortar) and good at taking out soldier ground targets like Pak40’s and Nebelwerfers. Don’t expect it to win a dogfight, except against a Stuka or a Zero. Aircraft are great units in general because you can use them wherever you most need them. Since this unit is so cheap, its expendable and therefore a pretty ok choice.

P-51D Mustang (17 points, 1944) : 4.5 stars
The Mustang is a very capable aircraft. Good in dogfights, good against soldier ground targets. And it has rockets, which means it can damage a Mark IV or disrupt a Panther or a Brummbaer from behind. This is very useful. Usually easily worth the 4 points over the P-40. But it can’t be a must have unit, as aircraft are by nature a difficult choice. They die easily, but can be very useful. Handle with care.

Lockheed P-38G Lightning (17 points, 1942) : 4 stars
A supreme ground attack aircraft against soldiers. This aircraft is especially useful if your opponent tends to forget covering his soldiers with AA guns. If you have your M1 Mortars in range, and have a good number of good targets within 4 hexes, it can also be very much worth it to sacrifice a Lightning for a devastating rain of death. I’d advise to do this only if your opponent has the more important units outside of cover.

F4U Corsair (20 points, 1942) : 3 stars
At 20 points, which is 3 points more than the Mustang, it only has its superior armor to show for. In comparison it loses Rockets and gains bombs. Bad deal. If available, use the Mustang instead.

Tanks :

M3 Light Tank (15 points, 1941) : 5 stars
This is a brilliant tank. Very fast (move 5), great anti infantry firepower (double shot against soldiers), more then capable against light tanks (9/7/5) and pretty ok medium armor (4/3). There are few reasons to not take this vehicle. Except that you might want to use the even cheaper M5 halftracks, or the somewhat tougher Sherman for better antitank power. But it’s a great tank. Always consider it in your battleplan. It especially excels at making the most out of enfilade fire opportunities.

M4 Early Sherman (20 points, 1942) : 2 star
While not entirely worthless, taking this tank is an insult to once intelligence. For 1 extra point, you gain a completely normal Sherman that doesn’t blow up in your face. I would use the models as normal Shermans, actually.

M4 Sherman (21 points, 1942) : 4 stars
Another brilliant tank. Fast (move 4), very capable anti infantry firepower (9/9/7), good against light tanks and capable against medium tanks (13/11/9) and good medium armor (5/4). A good all round tank, that is pretty cheap. If you don’t know that tank to take, take a Sherman.

M24 Chaffee (22 points, 1945) : 3 stars
The description states this is arguable the best light tank of the war. They might have forgotten to reflect that in its stats, as it is clearly inferior to the Sherman. But its an all right light tank nevertheless. If you play with the expanded rules, you will do well taking the platoon with this tank in it (the US Recon platoon if I remember correctly), as at a reduced price, this tank is easily worth it. I think the M24 Chaffee suffers a bit from the awesome competition. It’s a fast light tank that can take out medium tanks and take some punishment. Not bad at all.

M4A3 (105) Sherman (24 points, 1944) : 4 stars
This is the US answer to the German Brummbaer. A very capable infantry killer tank. Unfortunately the Brummbaer is cheaper, is tougher and has more firepower (with blast). But the M4A3 Sherman has better dice, and more speed. If you want something specific dead, even if its hiding in a pillbox, and even if it’s a 5/5 SS Panzergrenadier, the M4A3 (105) Sherman will get that job done. Note that it can also take out Hetzers in cover (though the return fire will kill the Sherman).

Veteran M4 Sherman "Rhino" (26 points, 1944) : 5 stars
Yet another Sherman variant. This is the most capable of the whole range. Relatively cheap, can navigate forests without a problem (Brushcutters SA), and can’t be bothered much by disruption (Veteran Crew SA). It’s far more reliable then the already reliable and versatile Sherman. Great tank.

M7 105mm Priest (27 points, 1942) : 3 stars
Awesome offensive capabilities, mediocre defense. For its price, bad defense. While this unit is capable of destroying just about any enemy soldier unit and a lot of light vehicles at extreme ranges (extended range 16, bombardment), it does need a spotter to direct its shooting (if firing indirectly). But worst of all, it has the Open Back SA, which means that an aircraft attacking from behind can use its anti soldier values. So if you use this gun, deploy it in a forest at the base line of your table, defended by a Quad. It might survive if you deploy it right. It’s a pretty valuable piece of firesupport that way. But if you add things up, 3 M1 mortars or 6 M8 Pack Howitzers will probably do a lot more damage than a single Priest. So, sad to say it, the M7 105mm Priest is probably not worth its points.

M4 Sherman T-34 Calliope (29 points, 1944) : 4 stars
A Sherman with added anti infantry firepower, and a Rocket Salvo ! What a great way to piss off your opponent. The threat of a Rocket Salvo is usually better then the actual use of the same Salvo. It makes your opponent spread out its troops. This will in turn make those troops more vulnerable to enfilade fire and death in general. So if you take a Calliope, make use of that terror potential. Use it to generate threat. Keep it central, keep it safe. Only use it if you are absolutely sure it pays off. See your opponent tip toe its way around the battlefield. It will be 29 points well spent.

M4 Sherman Commander (33 points, 1942) : 4.5 stars
An M4 Sherman that costs 12 points extra. And what do we get ? The ‘well led’ ability. This happens to be one of the best commander abilities in the game (ain’t we happy to be the USA !). Friendly vehicles within 2 hexes get +1 die on any attack in the assault phase. So Archer tank destroyers get that and those M4A3 infantry killers, and the double shot M3 light tank and your M4 Calliope rocket salvo. Sweet. The Sherman Commander is a great asset in larger game (200+ points). In smaller games you really need to stretch it to make it work.

M3 Lee (37 points, 1942) : 2 stars
Almost twice the cost of a Sherman, and not much better. It’s a good anti infantry tank, but its far too costly to put to use as such. The Germans have far too many affordable anti tank units. The M3 Stuart does infantry killing a lot better, for a lot less points, while the Sherman does tank killing for a lot less points and with a lot more effectiveness. If you are somehow absolutely sure you will always gain initiative, or are fighting the Japanese (who have a hard time killing this tank at long range), this tank might be worth it. In any other case, just skip this ugly thing.

M4A3E8 Sherman "Easy Eight" (54 points, 1944) : 2 stars
This is one of the cheaper 7/6 tanks in the game. It can even transport troops. Excellent suspension, Superiour armour 2, armour piercing round. This is a genuine brilliant product. But I rarely use it. Because its anti (heavy) tank capabilities are not good. While it is in the heavy tank price class. The Easy Eight is very good on paper but suffers from being a golden retriever in the dingo cage. It’s a nice doggy but it can’t hope to challenge the other tenants.
_________________

My new blog, specialised in the military equipment of Greece (1821-today).

NeuralDream · **NeuralDream**

... continues

M26 Pershing (60 points recosted, 1945) : 3 stars
Finally a USA heavy tank on par with the Tiger. While it cannot compete with the Veteran Tiger (then again, nobody can), and it is a prime target for the Wehrmacht Expert Sniper, it still is a good tank. It has superior armour 2, 7/6 defense, ok speed, good anti infantry capability (nice for a heavy tank) and extended range 12. But you can get 3 Hetzers for the same price, and they will eat the Pershing alive. So think hard if you want to take a Pershing. Against the Germans its usually not good enough, unless you have a brilliant plan. And against the Japanese its complete overkill.

Transports :

Jeep (4 points, 1942) : 3 stars
The jeep is extremely fast, and transports a single soldier. Move 5, high gear 2 and road bonus, might become a move of 8 per phase (9 with Fuel Dump). All kinds of soldiers can be transported to hot spots by the Jeep with great speed. Its somewhat expensive though, at 4 points. Since the Blitzkrieg is about getting as much firepower concentrated at the right point as possible, Jeeps can be invaluable to the USA war effort. Handle with care as they die easily, but never forget about them.

CCKW 352 (4 points, 1942) : 4 stars
This Truck is slower than a Jeep, but can take with it both artillery and normal infantry. A large transport is pretty awesome, as it delivers a load of firepower in a single haul. But beware of its vulnerabilities. Its only a 1/1 vehicle that is an easy target for any tank or aircraft.

Higgins Boat (7 points, 1942) : 1 star
The 1 star is just an indication that this unit is for special circumstances only. Like, an amphibious invasion. Actually, this unit is silly. A few scenario special rules would have covered this model better. Use them if you must. You usually wont.

M5 Half-Track (7 points, 1942) : 5 stars
Previously at 14 points, but now 7 points. This is a world of difference. At 7 points this unit is almost a must have. It can transport units fast over any terrain, it has good anti soldier firepower, it is capable against light vehicles and it provides a fighting platform for whatever it transports. For 7 points. What a bargain. In the expanded rules, the halftrack is a good way to cash in on enfilade fire. Anyways, this is a unit that needs to be considered a few times in any USA battleplan. If you want to take the offensive, don’t leave these beauties at home.

M3 Half-Track (8 points, 1942) : 3 stars
The heavy duty brother of the M3. Unfortunately, it isn’t a fighting platform. That would make it a 5 star unit. But it’s only capable of –moving- soldier-artillery. I personally would declare all my M3’s being M5’s (as they are hard to distinguish anyways). Artillery towing isn’t that needed in the US army anyways: the good stuff has extended range or is light artillery. But if you are using 3” Gun M5’s, or if you like to redeploy your Quads fast, this artillery towing transport can come in handy.

Amtrack (11 points, 1944) : 3 stars
Another capable transport in the US army. This one is amphibious, and thus can navigate steams and water. So if steams and water is what you expect, load up on the Amtracks. It can also be a fun action in normal scenario’s, as the enemy usually expects a stream or a body of water to at least slow down the advance. But all in all I think the M5 is way superior.

Recon :
FO Jeep (11 points, 1942) : 1 star
Often nominated as the single most useless vehicle in the game. Until the German Kettenrad was released. This unit spots for the USA. Since the primary USA artillery (the M1) doesn’t need spotting, the FO Jeep is considered a bad joke. A good number of houserules have tried to put the FO Jeep back into action. I use them as normal Jeeps instead. Anyways, an FO Jeep is not worth its points. If considering something like that, get yourselves a normal Jeep with a Ranger in it. Far more useful.

M8 "Greyhound" (16 points, 1943) : 3 stars
Quite probably the most capable recon unit available. But at a high price. 16 points almost buys you a Sherman. But the good part of the Greyhounds are multiple. It is good against infanty, and it can take out light tanks and threaten even some medium tanks (also due to its speed). With Strike and Fade 2 its brilliant at hit and run attacks (if you have initiative). And due to its experienced recon SA, it can hunt down Snipers with ease. Taking out an 11 point Wehrmacht Expert Sniper at a critical location is usually worth far more then the 16 points the Greyhound costs. The (expanded rules) US Recon platoon features a M8 "Greyhound", at a reduced price, so in that case, go for it!

Anti Air vehicle :

M16 Half-Track (15 points, 1943) : 4 stars
A Quad on an M5, that can fire on the move. Very vulnerable to direct attack. But its role doesn’t require it to deploy in a vulnerable position. As mobile air cover it’s a very capable unit. I experienced a number of times that you shouldn’t leave home without these guns. Stuka’s will massacre your armored flanks if you don’t protect them well. The M16 is that protection. Note that it also functions as a very good flanker. Double shot with good anti infantry dice is great stuff.

Anti Tank vehicles:

M-10 (19 points, 1942) : 3 stars
The M-10 is a tank destroyer that is capable against the Mark IV series. It has nothing to distinguish it selves though. Flanking attack is a fun bonus, but usually proves to be suicide. It’s a good thing the M-10 has a turret though  So attacking an enemy from behind can be a good action. All considering it’s an affordable antitank gun on a fast and solid chassis. If you like survivability over speed, take the M-10 over the M-18 Hellcat.

M18 Hellcat (20 points, 1944) : 3 stars
Same as the M-10, but faster and with less armor. In the rare case that you can outflank turretless enemy tank destroyers, these fast Hellcats will have a field day.

M18 GMC (24 points, 1944) : 2 stars
A strike and fade Hellcat. The only problem with this tank destroyer is that the UK has a cheaper vehicles with better armor and attack values. So the M18 isn’t a viable choice. It’s an ok choice if you don’t want to use UK weapons : strike and fade is very sneaky. But if you have the choice, use the Archer.

M36 MGC (36 points, 1944) : 4 stars
The best USA tank destroyer. And the most expensive one. Medium armor (5/3), good speed (4), a brilliant antitank gun (17/14/12), extended range 12 and flanking attack. Combined with the Sherman Commander tank, it equals the best German tanks in hitting power. But not in survivability. Handle this tank destroyer with care. Try to only use it when you can make a favorable exchange. Overwatch is always an option with this thing.

Conclusion

The USA has a lot of great units. If you take away the M1 super mortar, it still is a more then capable force. If you build an army, remember that true strength comes from flexibility and combined arms. You will have a far more interesting battle if you balance out the use of Infantry, Aircraft, Artillery, Tanks, Transports, Recon and Anti Tank. Every unit type has its role. Concentrating solely on tanks (a beginners fault) or solely on infantry (an advanced rules problem) will result in disaster. The total is a lot more than the sum of the parts.

campbjj - AAM - Canada

Canadian Infantryman

3 points- Good solid (Cheap)infantry, meant for fighting other infantry. Lacks anti-armour attacks outside of its own hex. Very little difference between other basic Infantry units.
Rated 4/10

Eagle-Eyed NCO
7 points-Best none hero infantry unit on allied side. Cheaper cost with Initiative+2 and Improved Accuracy for Infantry. Again lacks anti-armour attacks outside of its own hex.
Rated 7/10

Sherman DD
24 points- Very useful unit for amphibious assaults. Same attack rating as normal shermans but can cross streams and water hexes. The screen means that it is very vulnerable during a crossing. Cost is three points more but only has use during amphibious games.
Rated 6/10

VC-17 Pounder
27 points- Second most poweful Allied Tank. Less than half the cost of an M-26 Pershing and the Tiger 1. Heavy Firepower with medium tank cost.
The armour piecing round SA is useful for taking a extra hit against the heavy units. The problem is that this unit lacks the armour of a heavy tank. With the same defense of the normal sherman, that equalizes the lower cost of this unit. Overall this unit can be a powerful unit if it is allowed to fight without being destroyed first. Use it with other VC-17 Pounders to give yourself multiple heavy attacks for the price of one Heavy Unit.
Rated 8/10

Overall the Canadian Army is really a source of several excellent units for the Allies to equip in their army. But as a stand alone force it lacks the ability to have the completeness of the other armies.

Rated As a Army 5/10

As a source of good Units 8/10

Cpt. John Miller - AAM - Soviet Union

AAM Soviet Union
The Russians are a formidable force in Axis and Allies miniatures, as they were in the real war. With plenty of tough armor, and scads of cheap, though somewhat limited infantry, the Russians prove that "Quantity has a quality all it's own". This nation is limited by a lack of fighter plane or any dedicated anti-air units, but has lots of great choices in all other departments.

Commanders:
•Commissar - 1939 - 5 Points - +1 Initiative
The cheapest of the the major nation commanders, the Commissar is crucial to all Soviet Infantry builds. Many essential infantry, including the Mosin Nagant and Maxim MG have the "Command Dependent" SA, but the Commissar is affordable enough to take multiples of to counter this drawback and can really be a show stopper with the "Bravery Enforcement" ability.
•Cossack Captain - 1941 - 9 Points - +2 Initiative
Ah, the dreaded CC...very expensive but highly effective. Perhaps the best power combo in the game is the CC loaded in a KV-1. So powerful in fact that most, including myself choose not to play these two in concert any more. "Intimidation" plus decent attack values and initiative make this unit well worth the 9 points.

Command Tank:
•T-34/76 Commander - 1941 - 38 Points - +1 Initiative
I would probably always take a Cossack Captain and a Regular T-34 for one point less than this new unit. Extra initiative plus almost as good of a defensive ability plus the extra unit to dismount if necessary makes this tank virtually obsolete for competitive purposes.

Heavy Tanks:
•IS-3 - 1945 - 76 Points
The biggest and most expensive tank in the game almost never sees playing time, mostly due to the scale change and the superior cost effectiveness of the Veteran Tiger. The IS-3 is the only tank in the game with 7/7 armor and "Superior Armor-3". With great AI dice and "HE Rounds" it is more versatile that most heavies but not quite affordable enough considering all the other great options the Russians can field.
•IS-2 - 1944 - 61 Points
Another great heavy tank that rarely sees playing time due to the dominance of the VT with it's range and "Crack Shot" advantages. Nicely rescaled and recosted this unit is actually more tempting than the previous version.
•SU-152 - 1943 - 51 Points
Affectionately nick-named "The Beast" this unit is good at just about anything. There is not much this tank can't kill but it is limited by it's speed, lack of extended range, and fixed gun. Good fun to play and not overly expensive as heavies go but not really playable because of the highly effective....
•KV-1 - 1942 - 32 Points
Along with the Veteran Tiger and the Churchill Crocodile, the KV-1 is one of the best Heavy Tanks in the game. With "Transport" and "Hulking Mass" along with excellent AI dice and extremely low cost for all of the above, the KV-1 is the cornerstone of most Russian builds. You just can't beat the value and cost effectiveness of this tank.

Medium Tanks:
•Guards T-34/85 - 1944 - 33 Points
Basically an up-gunned T-34 this tank is a nice mix of abilities. "Guards Crew" is useful, as well as the extra point of frontal defense. Unfortunately the KV-1 and T-34/76 are so tempting that this guy is usually doesn't see too much time on the battlefield. Playable but not dominant.
•T-34/76 - 1941 - 28 Points
This tank competes with the Sherman M4A1 for best medium tank in the game. Mobile, tough, and with decent dice. But what puts this unit over the top is the "Transport" ability. Very useful and great in combination with other units. A staple piece for any Russian force, which unlike the KV-1 is historically true as well.
•SU-122 - 1943 - 22 Points
Call this tank the baby Brummbar. Cheap, fast, tough and good for taking out groups of clustered infantry. Limited by the fixed gun. Nicely paired with the...
•SU-85 - 1943 - 22 Points
The tank destroyer counterpart for the above. Cheap, fast, and tough with decent AT dice but almost completely useless against infantry. Also has a fixed gun and no extended range to counter it's German equivalents.
•Soviet M3 Lee - 1942 - 30 Points
Not horrible with "Transport" and an additional attack from it's hull mounted gun, but again, the KV-1 is just too good to pass up for only 2 more points. This lend-lease tank is functionally obsolete.
•SU-76M - 1943 - 18 Points
This tank is just fine with decent armor, speed and attack dice, but is limited by "No Turret" and "Open Back". Not too shabby for the price though.
•T-70 Model 1942 - 1942 - 12 Points
Very fast and cheap, with decent armor, but lacking in attack dice and with a major drawback in "Undermanned", the T-70 is mostly useful in large numbers or as support for better tanks. Or for hunting smaller vehicles and support units.
•T-35 - 1939 - 18 Points
What a strange unit this is. With no clear role and a lot of interesting but confusing statistics and special abilities, I have not been able to find a great use for this hard hitting but slow and weakly armored tank. It could be dominant in early war scenarios I suppose.

Light Tanks:
•BT-7 - 1939 - 13 Points
This is a great little tank and could be a candidate for best light tank in the game if it wasn't for the M3 Stuart being so darn good. Very playable with no major drawbacks or funky pricing issues.
•T-26B - 1939 - 11 Points
Slower, with less AT dice and armor than the BT-7 and available the same year, I see no reason to not spend the extra two points for the much better BT. I have yet to use this tank in a serious game.

Trucks and Armored Vehicles:
•BM-13 Katsyusha Rocket Launcher - 1941 - 12 Points
This unique unit is sometimes difficult to use effectively. It is great as a deterrent for infantry movement with it's "Rocket Salvo" ability, but in general it's bark is worse than it's bite due to the "Inacurate" drawback. It has no armor to speak of and often spends most of the game hiding from enemy tanks and AT threats.
•BA-10M - 1939 - 12 Points
Very expensive and lacking much punch for an armored car, the BA is interesting in the fact that it is the only unit in the game with the "Aggression" ability. Functionally the opposite of "Strike and Fade". Might have seen more play if it had been priced somewhere closer to the Panhard and Humber allied armored cars which are much better and cheaper.
•ZIS-5 3 Ton - 1939 - 4 Points
The Russian version of every transport truck in the game. No difference except the classic styling of the model.

Aircraft:
•IL-10 Sturmovik - 1945 - 21 Points
This plane would be one of the best in the game if not for the fact that it lacks the "Anti-air" ability. When compared to the equally priced Hawker Typhoon it loses out without "Anti-Air" or "Rockets". These planes have the same attack dice and the Sturmovik's only advantage is it's durability with "Superior Armor 2". The Russians need a fighter plane badly.

Basic Infantry:
•Mosin-Nagant 1891/30 - 1939 - 3 Points
With the largest "Close Assault" value of any 3 point infantry in the game, along with standard riflemen AI dice, the Mosin is a great value and would be too good if it wasn't limited by "Command Dependent". Forms the backbone of the Russian infantry horde along with the...
•PPSh-41 SMG - 1941 - 3 Points
"Limited Range 2" and low medium-range attack dice along with a lack of "Close Assault" can be an issue for this SMG. At short range it really shines though. When mixed evenly with the Mosin-Nagant they form a synergistic force where each can balance the limitations of the other. Add the Commissar to the mix and you have an able and affordable horde of Soviet Small arms.
•Soviet Grenadiers - 1939 - 4 Points
Because of the cost effectiveness of the above soldiers the Soviet Grenadier hardly becomes a factor in most builds. Slightly more expensive with standard AI dice and "Close Assault" value, this soldier has the benefit of "Hand to Hand 9" but is sunk by the "Limited Range" drawback. If I want to spend 4 points for a Russian soldier I would almost always take the...
•Degtyarev DP-27 - 1939 - 4 Points
A perfect compliment to the Mosin-PPSh-Commissar group, the Deg is not really hindered by the "Command Dependent" drawback and can be highly useful because of the amazing "Covering Fire" ability. Slightly more expensive but worth the extra point, fold one or two of these into your horde build to make it even more effective.

Specialized Infantry
•Communist Partisans - 1940 - 3 Points
Arguably the best Partisan unit in the game, these guys can be very helpful in most games. Cheap, moderate attack dice and "Close Assault" along with "Urban Combat" make the Communist Partisan an effective deterrent to protect flanks, hunt supports, or simply disrupt your opponent's opening turn strategy and cost him precious time.
•Cossack Cavalrymen - 1939 - 4 Points
Unfortunately, the Polish Cavalry unit makes this guy seem a little dull. Not as fast or effective as the Polish version, the Cossack Cav can be useful on heavily forested maps with it's "Elusive" SA, or for countering BMWs.
•PTRD-41 Antitank Rifle - 1941 - 4 Points
With the reemergence of worthwhile German Halftracks and Armored cars this AT rifle is now more playable then ever. Could be difficult to utilize if your opponent doesn't field any though.
•Maxim M1910 MG - 1939 - 7 Points
Finally the Russians have a Machine Gun! Basically a cheaper Vickers with "Command Dependent" this MG fits right into the Soviet infantry strategy. March him up the field with the other Russian soldiers, or load him in a tank and drop him where he can do the most damage. This unit is a welcome addition to the Red Army.
•ZIS-2 57mm Model 1943 - 1943 - 8 Points
Standard AT gun of the Russian variety. Nothing to complain about, nor get excited about.
•Red Army Forward Observer - 1939 - 8 Points
The cheapest dedicated Spotter in the game, this unit is just fine for what he is designed for. Without the attack dice of the German version, or the "Camouflage" of the British spotter, this unit has the advantage of spotting while loaded safely in a tank, avoiding reprisal attacks and the ridiculous "Chatting on the Radio" drawback. Some don't agree with this usage of spotters, but I like the strategy and don't think it is too powerful not to be allowed. Always used in concert with the...
•82mm PM-37 Mortar - 1939 - 11 Points
Identical in every respect to the German counterpart, this mortar does not have any really interesting quirks. Simple, effective, long range AI support. Not over or under-priced.
•Fanatical Sniper - 1941 - 8 Points
Perhaps the best sniper in the game besides the unfortunately uber-dominant Wermacht Expert, this unit is great for taking out everyone's favorite targets, the SS. Watch those SSPGs and Haupsturmfuhrers run for cover from this little beauty. Affordable, difficult to counter, and effective, the Fanatical Sniper also has the distinction of being the only female unit in the game, just read the flavor text if you don't believe me.

Hero:
•Hero of the Soviet Union - 1941 - 8 Points
There really isn't a Hero that I don't like but this one rates highly in it's field. Good dice, defense, "Close Assault", "Hand to Hand", and the incredibly infuriating "Endurance" ability make this Hero a must have for any army. Spawning from tank-loaded soldiers is also a major deterrent for enemy infantry and a cool little trick that the Soviets have up their sleeve. This unit is the definition of "Red Scare".
_________________

My new blog, specialised in the military equipment of Greece (1821-today).

Aquarius · **Aquarius**

Go French!
_________________
I have to make a new sig because my old one is too wide for this new look...

Cpt. John Miller · **Cpt. John Miller**

Maybe someone other than the entrants will vote. Seems everyone has voted for themselves so far.
_________________

EvilKobra · **EvilKobra**

Oi, I didn't vote yet... Razz

_________________

Cpt. John Miller · **Cpt. John Miller**

Angel of Death · **Angel of Death**

Regardless of all votes, I was very happy to read all the submissions. Great info. Especially on WAS, since I just started playing it.

NeuralDream · **NeuralDream**

Any more feedback for the contestants?
_________________

My new blog, specialised in the military equipment of Greece (1821-today).

EvilKobra · **EvilKobra**

Swarbs's is full of great tactical insight, it's easy and pleasant to read and it doesn't swamp you with excess information. He gets my vote.
_________________

NeuralDream · **NeuralDream**

Bump for last votes. Less than a day left.
_________________

My new blog, specialised in the military equipment of Greece (1821-today).

The_lucky_Y · **The_lucky_Y**

hmm so low voices for me whats wrong? let me know the mistakes please.
_________________

YVAN EHT NIOJ !

cwfgamecast · **cwfgamecast**

The WAS Germany and WAS Italy compositions are basically tied for me. There is added detail, category-wise, for WAS Germany whereas WAS Italy has great tactical insight.

I found WAS Japan to be lighter on those two areas and if it adopted a format like WAS Germany and included more of the tactical insight of WAS Italy I could have found myself voting for that submission.
_________________

Sneak Peeks, Pics & Stat Cards http://wargamingforums.com

WAS
Set 1: 64/64 - 252 pieces
Task Force: 60/60 - 260 pieces
Flank Speed: 40/40 - 198 pieces

NeuralDream · **NeuralDream**

Great job all.

The points earned in this event:

1. AngelOfDeath ---- 7 pts
2. EvilKobra ------ 5 pts
3. swarbs ------ 4 pts
4. Cpt. John Miller -- 3pts
-. Richter Von Manthoven --- 3 pts
-. The_Lucky_Y --- 3 pts
_________________

My new blog, specialised in the military equipment of Greece (1821-today).

Angel of Death · **Angel of Death**

Thanx for the votes ! I'm looking forward to the next creative bit.