:: :: FAQ :: Search :: Memberlist :: Join! (free) :: Profile :: Log in to check your private messages :: Log in ::
Paint Along With Danaussie - Pictorial Tutorial
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Axis & Allies ForuMINI Forum Index -> Naval Modelling
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
danaussie

_
 Naval Miniature Artist

MySingleNationClub
MySpecialCauseClub
HONORARYBADGE

Joined: 22 Feb 2010
Likes received: 171

Posts: 12161
FLAGS




Post subject: Paint Along With Danaussie - Pictorial Tutorial  Reply with quote   (Liked by:4)  Like this post
Paint Along With Danaussie - A Tutorial

Danaussie's Previous Full Tutorial:
http://aaminis.myfastforum.org/about17057.html

Part 1 : Introduction

Hi everyone,

Here is a pictorial tutorial that will hopefully help some aspiring W@S Painters to pick up their brushes and start painting your miniatures.

Why Paint Your Miniatures?

I think that painting minis is great fun, the ability to bring something fairly plain looking to life is really rewarding in itself. The hobbiest aspect of "any" miniature wargame is half the fun in my humble opinion. WotC have given us some fabulous looking miniatures to work with, the detail on most of these models is quite good, and the factory paint jobs are also quite good ( Laughing for factory paint jobs Laughing). I have bored Forumini for years on what I like to call "Game Aesthetics", this is anything that helps to bring your tabletop to life. From the tabletop itself to smoke markers and of course the miniatures themselves. All of these things help to bring something to the game and further enhance the gaming experience.


An Introduction To Painting W@S Minis

First of all most artists at Forumini will tell you that painting minis is not very difficult and its something that anybody can do. This is very true, when I teach here in Australia I teach that this is nothing more than a few neat tricks that have been used so many times it is now like second nature.



My mentor...well one of them, told me when I started painting 18 years ago that "your first 200 models will be your worst". lol Laughing  he was right. Laughing  So the thing is, be patient with yourself, learn the basics and repeat them, dont expect to be a master painter on your first day.



The best minis to paint (I believe) are IJN or any miniature that does not have camouflage just so you have the basic principles in place, then once you have them down you can start experimenting with other things, camo, weathering, advanced shading and other techniques.

Getting Started

Like some of my other tutorials I have written I will share the techniques that I use and the equiptment and paint that I use. I will stress that my techniques are by no means the be all and end all, they are just the tricks I use. I am by no means an expert just a practiced painter that loves his trade.

Before we start painting its a good idea to make yourself some room, a tidy working area is much better than a messy one. The last thing you want to do is knock over paint pots or spill the water jar while searching around for the things you need. Keep your paints in boxes so you can easily find them, your brushes at hands reach and the water jar in a place where you will not knock it over. And Lighting! It is important to have adequate lighting so you can see what you are doing, a good desk lamp is all that is required.


My Work Station


Close-up Of My Work Station

Paints & Brushes

Well....Citadel! I have talked at length with many miniature artists that use or have used many different paint brands. All artists will have their preferences in both Paint and Brushes, so we will not go into that here...perhaps we can open a topic on that subject later.



I have used many types of paint myself, in fact when I first started painting I used (and swore by) enamels. I had even become quite profficient at using them...then I met Cameron Scott while starting out painting GW (Games Workshop) Warhammer Fantasy miniatures. He showed me a few tricks using the Citadel Paints and I systematicaly stood up and threw my entire box of enamels in the trash. The point of telling you this is that I knew that I would never get the same level of depth and shading from Enamels, with as much simplicity and ease as with Acrylics. But Wait!!!! Shocked

Before you throw all your other paints in the trash  Laughing  please just remember that I have also seen other painters get fantastic results with them, and like I have said this is completely up to the individual artists, play around, experiment using brands you will soon discover what best suits your style and technique package.



I dont believe that there is a more superior paint than Citadel Acrylics, if there is a better brand I certainly have not come accross it yet. While I use Citadel as my mainline paint, I do use other brands as well like Vallejo, Tamiya & Art Spectrum (AS) for other jobs such as Base-Coating (priming), Washing, Inking etc. I suppose it also should be mentioned that these brands all marry very well together, Citadel over Tamiya and Vallejo all works fine.

Tamiya Acrylics and Vallejo Acrylics are great but I dont find they dry-brush as well or as easily as Citadel does, so the dry-brush will almost always be done in Citadel but the other jobs can be done using the other brands. You will find what best suits your style in a very short time...like I said earlier....experiment.

A Word On Brushes...

Once again this will be the individual artists choice, most artists will tell you that Windsor & Newton are the best brushes in the sport, they are right, they are also the most expensive. Laughing  You want a good sable brush, brand is not so important as tip in my view, I use a bunch of cheap-@$$ Jasart Round 20/0 brushes as my mainline brush and I will often buy 20 of them at a time. My brushes have a long life and are recycled for other uses once their tip has deteriorated. The older brushes get used for base-coating, and then for dry-brushing before finally graduating to the trash basket. Laughing



I also have a large range of other types of brushes as well, I will use a small/short, square head brush for painting hulls. I am always on the hunt for things for modelling and painting and will often walk into a "2 Dollar Shop" and grab a $2 set of "artists" brushes if the set has any kind of brush that I may find a use for.

So simple rule of thumb, Sable or Sythetic Sable brushes for use with Acrylics, you will want 2-3 fine detail brushes at 00 to 000 in size 20/0 (Jasart). Games Workshop has some Sable "fine detail" brushes available that are not very good and over priced, but they will do if you are in there grabbing your paint. Any hobby shop should supply a good range of Vallejo, Tamiya Acrylics and Citadel Acrylics and have a good range of brushes to choose from. Of course you can also order most things online these days.

So now we have talked about all the things you will need...so lets get painting. I will take everyone through the process of painting your minis in a step by step manner so we can all paint along together.

Preparing Your Model For Painting

But first we should prepare the model for painting, some models will have "dags" (pieces of unwanted plastic from the moulding process), it is optional if you wish to remove these before the painting process. Take a look particularly around the gun barrels for pieces of plastic that you wish to remove. You can generally remove these carefuly with a modelling knife or sandpaper.

It is also good idea to wash the model before painting, this is particularly important so that the paint adheres to the model. Often our models are second hand or have been handled many times before they ever get painted. This will leave an oily residue on the model and make it hard for the paint to stick to the model. So before you paint the model just wash it in hot (not boiling) soapy water and then rinse and allow to dry.      


Now our model is ready to paint...


Last edited by danaussie on Sat Sep 20, 2014 5:23 am; edited 6 times in total
PostWed Mar 12, 2014 4:26 am
Back to top View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
danaussie

_
 Naval Miniature Artist

MySingleNationClub
MySpecialCauseClub
HONORARYBADGE

Joined: 22 Feb 2010
Likes received: 171

Posts: 12161
FLAGS




Post subject: Reply with quote   (Liked by:0)  Like this post
Paint Along With Danaussie - A Tutorial
Part 2 : Painting

Step 1 - Priming or Base-Coating

The first thing we have to do is prime the model, us GW painters call this Base-Coating this is the first layer of paint to which every other coat adheres to. There are two ways of doing this and I do not recomend any one over the other, it will depend on what you have available to you. Just remember that our objective here is to start using darker shades and layer lighter shades over the top.

Try to avoid using black or white primers, black will give you too darker shade to build on resulting in a "cartoon-like" apearance, so too with white this will not give you the definition or contrast between the shades, the subsequent colours will turn out to be too bright. Your transition between the shades should be subtle and soft.

Brush-On
You can apply the first coat by brushing it on choose a dark grey to do this either a darkened Codex Grey (Citadel) a mix of 3-5% Caos Black to 95-97% Codex Grey should give you a perfect base-coat colour. Basalt Grey (Vallejo) also makes a great base-coat shade.



Good Tip - Prepare pots in advance with pre-mixed colours so that you can paint directly from the pot.

Make sure you cover the entire model, get your brush into all the areas of the model, allow the model to dry and then give it a good look over to see if you have missed a spot and touch up the base-coat. These areas will often show up as lighter than the base-coat.

Spray-On

The alternative is to spray on your base coat, many modellers and painters will prefer this method for three reasons:

1. A spray coat will leave a more even coat.
2. A spray coat will provide no loss of detail.
3. A spray coat will take far less time. Wink  Laughing

I have become a great believer in the spray-on method since talking with other artists here at Forumini believe it or not. As a (once) commission painter the time differential was certainly undenyable. Laughing For example to brush-on base coat 10 battleship sized models would take well over 3 hours. To spray-on 20 battleship sized models would take 15 minutes.


Tamiya Color - German Grey (TS-4)

There are many products for this available, I will recommend Tamiya Modelling Sprays as these are what I use for both large scale models as well as miniatures. Make sure the spray is a dark grey and is matt (not gloss) and all will be well. Pictured above is an amazingly unused can of German Grey, this shade is the closest to Codex Grey (Citadel) and Basalt Grey (Vallejo) that I have come accross.


Sprayed Models IJN Kongo & IJN Nagato

It is a good idea to use a box for spraying into, and to find a well ventilated, dust-free environment. Shake the can well for about 3 minutes, then spray in a side to side motion 3-4 times accross the model/s at a distance of about 30cm away from the model/s. DO NOT spray too close to the model/s. Allow the paint to dry for about 10 minutes before touching the model/s.

Good Tip - If you decide to spray your models try to do a few at a time to make your can of spray go further. Doing this will also allow you to paint another model while your paint dries during other steps....or you could just pay a visit to Forumini. Wink


....Congratulations guys you are well on your way, step 1 is now complete, we are primed and ready for the next step.

Step 2 - Washing

This is part of a two step process known as the wash and dry-brush, my opinion is you cant do one without the other, these two techniques work in unison with each other for a fabulous effect of depth and shading. In the end you should have something that looks like this: Pretty Cool Huh! Cool  Laughing


USS California after Wash & Dry-Brush

I will often show my students the finished product, it not only inspires them to make the magic happen, but it also shows them the target they are aiming for. So lets make it happen. Very Happy

There is a simple principle in play here and I am going to show you what that is, we will apply a wash to the recesses of the model before hi-lighting the raised areas with a lighter shade of paint. How does this work?



The above is a simple diagram of the principle of the wash and dry-brush working in unison. The diagram shows you the wash that rests in the recesses (3) (deeper areas) of the model, leaving the raised edges (1) a lighter shade (that of the base-coat colour, the dry-brush (2) then adds a blended hi-light to the raised surfaces resulting in a subtle and soft blended look. Its that simple. Very Happy


USS Baltimore after Washing

....So how do we apply the wash?

The wash itself is nothing more than a watered down paint in principle. However there are washes available Vallejo has a magnificent range of "Transperant" paints as does Citadel. Not to be confused by "Inks" (we will get to that later).  Very Happy

I think the best thing to explain to everyone is a simple rule of thumb that "all pigment "stains" even white if painted over a darker shade. If we have that idea then we know what we are dealing with when talking washes. Put simply you can mix any wash in any shade so long as it is darker than the intended hi-light shade. Mix at around 10% pigment to 90% water and voila you have a wash.


A Pre-Mixed Wash made from Chaos Black and Water in a bottle cap. Laughing

I prefer to use Citadel's Badab Black Wash, I warn you now that it smells awful, but it is far and away the best wash available for our application.



Apply the wash evenly over the deck, you will start to see the watery paint collecting around the raised deck detail etc. Around the super-structure you should use a dabbing motion and just touch into the recess areas, remember its watery...let gravity do its work here. Wink Make sure you get the wash into "all" the recessed areas. Particularly around the base of the superstructure where the deck meets the superstructure and in around the base of the gun turrets etc. Be generous with the wash....get messy! Laughing  Laughing  Laughing



In the above picture you will see that I am using an old brush which is perfect for washing, note also that there is a generous amount of wash on the brush and that I am dabbing and pushing it into the recessed areas.


The Nagato After The Wash

Please note that the "entire ship" is much much darker in shade after the wash in both the Baltimore picture and the Nagato picture above, however, will also clearly see that the raised areas still show through with the original base-coat shade albeit a few shades darker while the recessed areas are almost black, you will also clearly see that the the transition between the shades is gradual and soft, this will be further enhanced with the next step...the Dry-Brush.

....Does it look messy like an old hulk in the Thames? Good! Then we have accomplished our goal. Congratulations you have just performed your first magic trick. Wink  Cool

Step 3 - Dry-Brushing

Important! - Please ensure that your model is completely dry before attempting the next step, allow up to 30 minutes drying time.

Dry-Brushing is perhaps the most difficult technique to demonstrate by text and photograph alone, it certainly helps to have this technique shown to you to fully grasp what is involved with it. It throws everything you know about painting completely out the door, and it is certainly one thing I still recall having alot of difficulty with in the early days. It is important to perservere and open your mind to a new concept.



We will refer back to Fig 1, so that you can understand the second part of this two-step process. The purpose of dry-brushing is to (4) add the hi-light and bring out the detail of the model. The idea is to remove "all" the paint from the paint brush, this will leave but filaments of pigment that are drying to the bristle of the brush, when flicked accross the raised areas of the model these filaments will attach themselves resulting in a flecked and subtle hi-light.

It IS for all intents and purposes the "complete reverse" of the first step which was to leave the raised edges light and make the recesses dark...we are now leaving the recesses dark and hi-lighting the raised edges.

Also take the time to study the picture displayed below, this is the technique of dry-brushing being demonstrated up close and personal.



Take a close look at the bristles on the brush, there is absolutely NO "visable" signs of paint on this brush, yet have a look at the deck planking slowly being hi-lighted and the recesses are remaining the same colour as the wash colour that was applied earlier. Note also that I am using a much larger brush than a "fine detail" for this job and a very scruffy and old one.

The direction of the brush strokes are moving vertically (top to bottom) from the edge of the superstructure to the edge of the deck, moving accross the lines of the deck planking the paint filaments are sticking to the raised edge of each plank, while leaving the recess of the planking their original colour.

...so how exactly do we do this?

The method is actually quite simple, it will take you a few goes to get past the idea that you must "have" to have paint on the brush to make this work....NO, you dont! Put your trust in the technique from the guys that know how to do it. Wink



First take a few sheets of clean white paper, printer paper is what I use. Fold the sheets in half and set them down beside you on at your work station.

You will need to select a colour that is a few shades lighter than the base coat for best effect, however it should be mentioned at this point that you should do some research into what your ship should look like before choosing colours. But for purposes of this demonstration we will select a fairly neutral grey. We have selected a slightly darkened Fortress Grey, about 10% Chaos Black to 90% Fortress Grey.


Removing Paint From Your Brush

Begin to actually paint the piece of paper, get all the paint off, when you are happy with how much paint you have removed then begin to apply it to the model in rapid motion accross all the detail of the ship.



You dont need to press hard on the brush....be delicate here. You will begin to see the lighter shade starting to attach to the raised surfaces.



This process will need to be repeated several times to successfully dry-brush the entire ship.


The Final Result - IJN Nagato After Dry-Brush

In the picture above, this is the final result after repeating this process just 4 times. You will clearly see we have soft and subtle definintion between the shades. The great thing about it is that you can now see all the detail of the model, detail that perhaps you could not see before the model was painted in this way.

...Congratulations you have just performed your second magic trick.

Step 4 - Deckwork

We are almost there, we now have a model thats detail is quite nicely defined, and has an almost realistic appearance. I will now show you how to add the wood deck to the Nagato. Once again guys will want to check their resources to see what actual shade you will need but I will show you the technique I use on most wooden decks.

Important - Of course the technique is slightly different when painting carrier decks or decks with other colours such as Deck Blue for most USN ships, but the principles remain the same.



We start the process from the top again because we are using a different shade, so a great base-coat for the wooden deckwork is Bestial Brown. You will now see all the deck detail such as anchor chains, gun mounts etc far easier now after the wash and dry-brush stage so this part of the job is quite easy.



As we go we will leave a small gap between the deck detail and the deck this will give us a good shadow when it comes to our final deck hi-light shade. Continue this process until all the areas of the deck that should be wood are base-coated in the dark brown. Once this is done allow to dry and then continue with the next step.

Wet-Brush Blending
Please don't let the title put you off from perhaps trying this technique, it is a technique that I have used since wanting to find a different way of achieving a wood grain effect without the need to dry-brush the deck. Why?

Carrier decks have a nice large surface area that can be dry-brushed quite easily, the same however cannot be said for Battleships and anything smaller. You "can" drybrush the decks of anything of course if you so desire, after all guys drybrush 60mm miniatures all the time.

However, when it comes to War at Sea miniatures you do run the risk of drybrushing over deck detail which will only result in further work later on to fix. So wanting far more control over where paint goes on decks is what created this technique in my skill set....and very quite by happenstance as well.

The technique involves using a watered down hi-light shade, I use predominantly different shades of Bleached Bone depending on the deck type I will often add a few drops of Sunburst Yellow to darken this shade or Skull White to lighten it. The consistency of the Wet-Brush Blend colour should be about 70% pigment to 30% water, this will water down the shade and make it quite thin.

[Graphic to Come]

Start to apply the paint from where the shade would be lightest and work your way towards the deck detail being careful to always allow a little space between the deck detail and the deck colour. You will find that as you go the paint will become thinner as it comes off the brush leaving a gradient effect between the darker shaded area and where the deck colour should be lighter in shade. Much like what a drybrush looks like.

Wink


Last edited by danaussie on Wed Jan 28, 2015 10:22 am; edited 44 times in total
PostThu Mar 13, 2014 12:11 am
Back to top View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
nrnstraswa

 W@S 'What-If' Modeller

MySingleNationClub
MyTheaterClub
MySpecialCauseClub

Joined: 22 Jul 2009
Likes received: 80

Posts: 17161
FLAGS




Post subject: Reply with quote   (Liked by:0)  Like this post
Fantastic work!!!  Thank you for this most informative guide.

bow
_________________

MNLH: Väkevälle Suomi!
GTL rating: +153
PostThu Mar 13, 2014 2:42 am
Back to top View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
weedsrock2

 
MySpecialCauseClub

Joined: 23 Dec 2007
Likes received: 909

Posts: 36854
FLAGS




Post subject: Reply with quote   (Liked by:0)  Like this post
Great start. Keep going!  Very Happy
_________________

The IJN Carrier Liberation Force - "Because We Care"
Join the IJNCVLF. Service Guarantees Citizenship!
PostThu Mar 13, 2014 4:15 am
Back to top View user's profile Send private message
NeuralDream

 
MySingleNationClub

Joined: 22 Dec 2007
Likes received: 270

Posts: 18234
FLAGS




Post subject: Reply with quote   (Liked by:0)  Like this post
This is superb.
_________________
PostThu Mar 13, 2014 7:19 am
Back to top View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
BoomerBill

_
 

Joined: 29 Oct 2012
Likes received: 106

Posts: 1474
FLAGS




Post subject: Reply with quote   (Liked by:0)  Like this post
More, more.
_________________

Those who don't remember their history are bound to do something or other...
PostTue Apr 08, 2014 4:01 am
Back to top View user's profile Send private message
BoomerBill

_
 

Joined: 29 Oct 2012
Likes received: 106

Posts: 1474
FLAGS




Post subject: Reply with quote   (Liked by:0)  Like this post
More, more.
_________________

Those who don't remember their history are bound to do something or other...
PostTue Apr 08, 2014 4:01 am
Back to top View user's profile Send private message
danaussie

_
 Naval Miniature Artist

MySingleNationClub
MySpecialCauseClub
HONORARYBADGE

Joined: 22 Feb 2010
Likes received: 171

Posts: 12161
FLAGS




Post subject: Reply with quote   (Liked by:0)  Like this post
No problem Bill, there is more coming but I have not had time to finish it off just yet, the next stage is showing how we can paint our decks. Of course there are many ways we can approach this and each artist has his own particular style, I will be showing how I do it.

The last part of this tutorial will be dedicated to h-lighting and that is all I will share, there are certainly many other things to teach but one thing at a time. I would just like learner painters to get these basic principles down before they concentrate on anything else.

...more coming Very Happy  Very Happy  Very Happy

Dan
_________________

Naval Modelling's New Model of the Month Award See Here:
http://aaminis.myfastforum.org/about44824.html
PostTue Apr 08, 2014 11:33 pm
Back to top View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
ghostbear_gurdel

 

Joined: 23 Jul 2014
Likes received: 1

Posts: 7
FLAGS




Post subject: Reply with quote   (Liked by:0)  Like this post
danaussie, this is an amazing tutorial. I've created an account just to ask you to finish it. Ive seen your work and really want to know how you do decks and other finishing touches. I kindly and humbly ask you to continue this post   Very Happy
PostWed Jul 23, 2014 11:36 pm
Back to top View user's profile Send private message
danaussie

_
 Naval Miniature Artist

MySingleNationClub
MySpecialCauseClub
HONORARYBADGE

Joined: 22 Feb 2010
Likes received: 171

Posts: 12161
FLAGS




Post subject: Reply with quote   (Liked by:0)  Like this post
ghostbear_gurdel wrote:
danaussie, this is an amazing tutorial. I've created an account just to ask you to finish it. Ive seen your work and really want to know how you do decks and other finishing touches. I kindly and humbly ask you to continue this post   Very Happy


I will finish this I promise, I have just had trouble getting back to this thread, the deckwork is the final step for this tutorial, in it I would be sharing how I paint the decks using a special technique I use called "wet-brush blending". I use this technique instead of dry-brushing as there is usually too much detail on decks to make the usual technique (dry-brush) work effectively. The wet-brush blend leaves largely the same effect as dry-brushing but with much more control over where the paint goes.

Currently I have a commission to complete which is already overdue so I cannot finish this just yet, in the next week or two I will be able to concentrate on another project, but for now I just cant mate...sorry.

Thank you for your kind words and interest. Very Happy  Very Happy  Very Happy

Dan
_________________

Naval Modelling's New Model of the Month Award See Here:
http://aaminis.myfastforum.org/about44824.html
PostThu Jul 24, 2014 12:07 am
Back to top View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
danaussie

_
 Naval Miniature Artist

MySingleNationClub
MySpecialCauseClub
HONORARYBADGE

Joined: 22 Feb 2010
Likes received: 171

Posts: 12161
FLAGS




Post subject: Reply with quote   (Liked by:0)  Like this post
Please be patient guys, I plan to cover:

Wet-Brush Blending for flat decks.
Hi-Lighting.
Camouflage Measures.
Inking & Washes.
Carrier Decks.
Basing & Water Effects.

There is a lot more to cover and all exclusive to Forumini, so please stay tuned, coming in November of this year 2014.

Cheers guys, and thank you for your interest.

Dan Very Happy  Very Happy  Very Happy
_________________

Naval Modelling's New Model of the Month Award See Here:
http://aaminis.myfastforum.org/about44824.html
PostSun Sep 21, 2014 7:16 am
Back to top View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
au64

 
MySingleNationClub
MyTheaterClub

Joined: 13 Aug 2013
Likes received: 103

Posts: 3800
FLAGS




Post subject: Reply with quote   (Liked by:0)  Like this post
Dan this is a fantastic job so far and now eagerly awaiting the rest.  It's been about 8-9 years since I've applied paint to a model, and the refresher is great since I'll most likely need to replace all my paints.

I know you were busy with a commission, but when you get back to this, can you also go over the prep work for a Shapeways model to get rid of the 'gritty' feel?

Thanks again for sharing your expertise!!!
PostMon Dec 29, 2014 6:57 pm
Back to top View user's profile Send private message
danaussie

_
 Naval Miniature Artist

MySingleNationClub
MySpecialCauseClub
HONORARYBADGE

Joined: 22 Feb 2010
Likes received: 171

Posts: 12161
FLAGS




Post subject: Reply with quote   (Liked by:0)  Like this post
Absolutely Au64, the commissions are finished and it is a New Year. I'm really hooking in to Forumini this year and also plan to finally get my Royal Navy fleet completed. Really excited about it actually. Very Happy  Very Happy  Very Happy

Let me also say that it is always nice to hear how a tutorial such as this one can not only help the relative novice to actually pick up a brush and start painting, but its also great to hear that it can inspire old time painters to get back up on the horse. That's just fantastic!

Its important to mention that I am no particular expert in this field, over a period of almost 20 years I have simply found a few tricks that work quite well when used in unison with each other, and like the man who got me to stop using enamels all those years ago and taught me these techniques, I simply wanted to pass the torch as it were. Its important to mention that there many very talented artists here at Forumini, I am just another student on the path of discovery just like everyone else here.

It will be great to see your work, I'll start back with the Deck-work of this tutorial in the next few weeks.

Thanks so much for your kind words and interest. Very Happy  Very Happy  Very Happy

Dan
_________________

Naval Modelling's New Model of the Month Award See Here:
http://aaminis.myfastforum.org/about44824.html
PostWed Dec 31, 2014 11:13 pm
Back to top View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Scrivner

 

Joined: 13 Feb 2011
Likes received:

Posts: 750
FLAGS




Post subject: Reply with quote   (Liked by:0)  Like this post
Awesome tutorial Danaussie! Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge and experience!

Is the rest of the tutorial with the wet-brushing and finishing posted somewhere else? Seems this thread was abandoned.

PostFri Jan 15, 2016 12:48 am
Back to top View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   

Post new topic   Reply to topic



   Axis & Allies ForuMINI Forum Index » Naval Modelling

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Editor's Choice
Forumini Generals
All AAM cards
All AAAF Cards
All War At Sea Cards
Forumini Admirals
A20 World Rankings
1. Jcmonson 1066
1. Bean965 1038
3. Vergilius 1024
WAS World Rankings
1. Admiral Wannabee 1240
2. mnnorthstars 1170
3. Azrael 1120
AAM World Rankings
1. Lil Snips 1096
2. Tripwire 1021
3. Kawolski 1010
Friends
Official WoTC site
Richard Baker's new Blog
Le Forum de A&ANM
Riverside Gaming
A&A Underground
Top posters
Brigman 42738
weedsrock2 36854
Flakstruk 35335
RAEVSKI 26750
firesdstny 26685
Asbestos 24554
SWO_Daddy 23223
Solomiranthius 19325
NeuralDream 18234
nrnstraswa 17161
herky80 16512
Lt_V 16301
jfkziegler 15353
Swished3 14762
carrion 14490
LcdrSwizzle 13698
packertim 13611
DaJudge 13360
mnnorthstars 12784
The_lucky_Y 12511
danaussie 12161
Shinnentai 11688
hokiepastor 10867


Forumini Newsletter
Issue #10 (Sep. 2013)
Issue #9 (Sep. 2012)
Issue #8 (Dec. 2011)
Issue #7 (Sep. 2011)
Issue #6 (Apr. 2011)
Issue #5 (Christmas 2010)
Issue #4 (Dec. 2010)
Issue #3 (Jul. 2010)
Issue #2 (Apr. 2010)
Issue #1 (Feb. 2010)


Card File  Gallery  Forum Archive
Theme by: :: Cosmic Distortion ::
Powered by phpBB © 2001 phpBB Group
Create your own free forum | Buy a domain to use with your forum