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That which hath been is now; and that which is to be hath already been;
Posts: 88

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Post subject: Modelling water on ships (complete) tutorial
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After many compliments, encouraging comments, ppl insisting I should tell, threats (No not my goldfish!!! ) and others asking politely, heres the "How did I make the water on my ships"
Ok, so here we go....
1. The mats
Actually, there isnt much needed for this, just some vital ingredients
- A mirror or other clean, flat, sturdy surface (mirror works well, did I mention the mirror?)
- A little tool to work with
- Woodland scenics Water Effects C1212. Anyway, that's what I used. It's thicker than glue (but not as sticky!), dries up completely transparent and is moldable (with skill and patience) Only drawback is that the 24hr drying period is only for very thin surfaces, if you apply more (like I do) then you can grow a nice beard while waiting for it to dry clear. But eventually it dries clear!
2. The mini
Not much to say here...
3. Apply the Water Effects
I do this in 3 ways, for the carrier which has a broad base I suffice with just putting a small circle of modelling water around it's base. This way I can still read the bottom and I don't waste a lot of the modelling water (itz expenzive!!!). The second method is for sleek ships like destroyers and light cruisers and the third method is for based units like subs. I'll get to those later.
4. Model the water
Using your modelling tool carefully model the water into forms that resemble bow waves, surf and other watery stuff . Take time and practice for this because otherwise you will a. Clutter your mini with water (those hurricanes take a toll eh?) b. end up with all your modelling water on your tool instead of your ship
I'll reserve 2 posts for a destroyer and a sub, and since everything is still drying out here, the second part will cover the further detailing and working of the dried water into something that will look like the high seas 
Last edited by Ecclesiastes on Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:43 pm; edited 3 times in total |
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Mon Sep 14, 2009 4:23 pm |
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That which hath been is now; and that which is to be hath already been;
Posts: 88

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Post subject: Small ships/cruisers
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Ok, so if you have a ship that is to sleek to just model around the base (since you will 'drown' the model then) here's a way to make waves for your small stuff.
1. Make a 'bed' of modelling water
2. Push the destroyer gently into the stuff with a bit of forward motion
3. Now model the waves again just like beforementioned

Last edited by Ecclesiastes on Mon Sep 14, 2009 7:29 pm; edited 3 times in total |
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Mon Sep 14, 2009 4:23 pm |
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That which hath been is now; and that which is to be hath already been;
Posts: 88

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Post subject: Based ships/subs
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Ok, so here come the subs and other 'based' units:
1. Make sure the object lays flat on the surface
2. Anchoring
Make a 'ring' of water around the base, this to make sure that the base sticks to the mirror (this makes the rest easier to model)
3. Covering
Now cover the rest of the base with the modelling water, after that you can model the water into the waves and shapes that you want
Same applies for subs:
1. Placing
2. Anchoring
3. Covering + modelling
Enjoy! if you have any idea's, questions or suggestions, just tell me, maybe I can try some stuff for you...
Last edited by Ecclesiastes on Mon Sep 14, 2009 7:29 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Mon Sep 14, 2009 4:23 pm |
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That which hath been is now; and that which is to be hath already been;
Posts: 88

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Post subject: Painting
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Ok, when all the stuff had dried, carefully pull them lose from the mirror, grab a scissors and cut the loose ends from the edges
For the sake of space I will not post every ship now...
Ok, when all has dried (or, if your impatient like me, when everything has almost dried) it will look a bit like this:
Now, it comes down to taste if you ink or drybrush, I personally like drybrushing because it will make a little less 'agressive' color for the water (I'll show an example of this later). So, I picked a nice blue color and drybrushed the base, not very heavily because I want the background to shine a bit through...
After this you can take a nice white to drybrush and highlight the waves...
For comparison, I tried the S-boat with a blue ink basecolor (I kinda bit regret it though), but if you like the darker blue for your water, dont let me stop you!
After finishing all your pieces you can enjoy your nice ships on your gaming table!!
A few bragshots
We spotted them sir!!!!
Hope this tutorial has been helpful for you guys,
Comments/questions/suggestions are welcome....
-Eccles-
Last edited by Ecclesiastes on Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:42 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Mon Sep 14, 2009 4:24 pm |
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 Resident Swede
 AHF Bronze-Rated Trader
 Posts: 2092

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Nicely done! Looking forward to the next installment  _________________
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Mon Sep 14, 2009 5:11 pm |
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 Hellcat Commander
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Posts: 1084

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Mon Sep 14, 2009 6:51 pm |
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That which hath been is now; and that which is to be hath already been;
Posts: 88

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Post subject:
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| Updated with the 'based ships' section, enjoy |
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Mon Sep 14, 2009 7:24 pm |
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W@S Enthusiast

Posts: 509

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Awesome work! Very impressive! _________________
"When in doubt, win the war." |
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Mon Sep 14, 2009 9:32 pm |
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 AHF Bronze-Rated Trader
Posts: 574

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Its so deliciously obvious! Water Effects, says so right on the friggin bottle! Thanks for bringing this product to our attention and demonstrating its workability.
Dogan
Now if I can afford it! |
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Mon Sep 14, 2009 9:56 pm |
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 I AM the Mad Scot! None are my equal! Many are my betters!

Posts: 1660

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Woodland scenics Water effects. Probably cheaper here in the states. I've seen here at the local model & train shop for about $5- $7 an 8oz bottle. It's been a while since then tho. I'll check again and get back to you all.
Just curious, how much is it there in the Netherlands?? Europe? _________________ The SCA: Just an excuse for getting dressed up in Medieval clothing and beat each other up with padded sticks! |
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Mon Sep 14, 2009 11:46 pm |
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Posts: 543

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If there is a Hobby Lobby near anyone they carry this stuff. Its about 8 or so a bottle and will last a good bit. I saw it there the other day when I was getting some flocking.
Very cool tutorial. I might have to give this a whirl!!
Thank you so much for the info!! _________________ Take a peek at my tradelist:
http://aaminis.myfastforum.org/about8921.html |
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Tue Sep 15, 2009 3:21 am |
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 AHF Bronze-Rated Trader
Posts: 4166

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Very nice indeed.
I used that stuff for the IJN carrier diorama I made for R.B. for last year's GenCon. It is hard to describe how tacky the stuff is when you are trying to sculpt it. It sticks to everything. One trick I read on-line that I used was to use an old toothbrush and just gently dab the bristles up and down on the surface of the goop to make the waves out on the open ocean areas. It worked pretty well. I definitely takes at least two days to completely dry. Ink washes are good if you want to give it a transparent bluish or bluish-green color. Then use the dry brushing to highlight the 'white caps.' _________________
The IJN Carrier Liberation Force - "Because We Care"
Join the IJNCVLF. Service Guarantees Citizenship! |
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Tue Sep 15, 2009 3:34 am |
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That which hath been is now; and that which is to be hath already been;
Posts: 88

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Post subject:
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| weedsrock2 wrote: |
Ink washes are good if you want to give it a transparent bluish or bluish-green color. Then use the dry brushing to highlight the 'white caps.' |
Hey! Spoiler alert for part 2 Couldn't wait for my stuff to dry eh?  |
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Tue Sep 15, 2009 5:50 am |
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That which hath been is now; and that which is to be hath already been;
Posts: 88

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Post subject:
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| cealigh the MadScot wrote: |
Just curious, how much is it there in the Netherlands?? Europe? |
Bought this bottle a long while ago, I think it was 18 euros here... |
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Tue Sep 15, 2009 5:52 am |
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That which hath been is now; and that which is to be hath already been;
Posts: 88

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Post subject: Bump
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Bump , painting section added! |
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Thu Sep 17, 2009 5:44 pm |
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 Lead me, follow me, or get out of my way -- G.S. Patton

Posts: 2823

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Those turned our excellent...Thanks for posting! _________________ Aaron
"Focus on your own character and your reputation will take care of itself" |
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Thu Sep 17, 2009 6:07 pm |
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Posts: 43

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Wow what a great tutorial! thanks for this... Now if only I can find this product here in our country..  |
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Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:52 pm |
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Dr. Who WhatNow?

Posts: 430

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Many thanks for adding this Tutorial. Can someone please Sticky this so it's easy to find in future? _________________
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Wed Oct 21, 2009 4:41 am |
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Dr. Who WhatNow?

Posts: 430

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Post subject:
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After reading both this tutorial and Weeds post it made me think. I have a little brush twig thingy with my beard trimmer bristles on one end and a semi-flat end to sculpt. Think it would work? _________________
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Thu Oct 22, 2009 1:33 am |
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That which hath been is now; and that which is to be hath already been;
Posts: 88

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Post subject:
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| Stormhawk4107 wrote: | | After reading both this tutorial and Weeds post it made me think. I have a little brush twig thingy with my beard trimmer bristles on one end and a semi-flat end to sculpt. Think it would work? |
I think the best way is as Weeds says with a small brush or with a small modelling tool, this because if you model it with a broad surface tool or brush, the water is going to end up on it instead of on the model.
I currently alternate between a small brush and the pointy tool from the tutorial. I noticed that it gives less residue with the brush.
Eccles |
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Thu Oct 22, 2009 7:01 am |
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