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Post subject: IJN Yahagi repaint (Tips needed)
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Hello all,
I haven't had time to paint any ships lately so this Yahagi repaint is all I have.  I tried the washing technique for the first time and I am not too happy about the result. As you will see in the pictures, I washed with black and the blacks did not stay in the corners. The wash actually kinda gave the ship a dirtier look.
Do you guys have any tips on how to get a better result out of washing? Also, the brown deck is too dark isn't it?
Without Flash
With Flash
Hope you guys could help me out! |
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 Fri Jul 03, 2009 2:07 pm |
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AHF Bronze-Rated Trader
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It depends on your formula for a wash. I would recommend putting in a couple of drops of Future brand floor polish. This helps break the surface tension in the wash and gets the paint to settle in the cracks and crevices instead of just on the flat surfaces of the deck.
Wasp
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| Fri Jul 03, 2009 2:25 pm |
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It looks good to me. I like for my ships to actually look like they've been a sea for a few weeks. Add a few rust streaks and yer done.
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| Fri Jul 03, 2009 4:55 pm |
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Hellcat Commander
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The wash looks fine. It is supposed to give it the dirty, used, worn look.
Repainting the deck is great, but you'd have to wash it again otherwise the deck would be very bright.
BattlesipOverkill's idea of some very (VERY) lght dry brush rust in a few areas, and touch up the gun tips and anchr chains, you'd be out of things to paint.
You're doing fine! Press on!
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| Fri Jul 03, 2009 5:19 pm |
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Nerd on the Prairie
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yep. I use seisen's formula for wash. future floor wax with black and brown ink. It comes out kinda shiney so add a light coat of varnish and you have a very durable repaint.
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| Fri Jul 03, 2009 6:14 pm |
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The future floor wax method is pretty solid, but for using straight black wash, that really isnt bad... I dont think I'd re-do it. You may try what Wasp advised and see if the floor wax (as a medium for the paint/ink) doesnt help, or simply thin your wash down even more. If its not pooling like you want, try thining it, and apply it more liberally. But once on, dont mess with it, avoid the temptation to "touch up" washes as they go on.
One way to test your wash is on a sheet of cardboard or styrene or paper plate, if when you run a brush-stroke of wash across, does it stay together without separating (the paint/ink and whatever), does it separate, or does "holes" develop from the center? You want the whole thing to stay together without loss of "water tension"... anything else and its too thined, or you didnt add enough ink/paint in the mixing process. You sorta want it about the consistency of Skim Milk.
All that noise aside, I think its a fine looking ship.
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| Sat Jul 04, 2009 1:28 am |
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Forum Administrator
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I think it looks great. I don't think there's any need to fix it.
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| Sat Jul 04, 2009 2:06 am |
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Have to agree with the concensus. I think the ship looks pretty good. Without the flash it does look a little dark, but with the flash it looks very good.
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| Sat Jul 04, 2009 2:11 am |
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USS OKLAHOMA BB-37
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She look's very good to me! Okie
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| Sat Jul 04, 2009 4:21 am |
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I think your ship is fine. But I also prefer for the wash to just puddle in the cracks and not darken the whole ship. The first thing to try is a thinner mix. I believe the standard is one part black to 15 parts water.
Don't 'brush' on the wash. Just dab the loaded brush and let the wash flow out of the brush onto and around the the model.
Washes make me very nervous because they are hard to control. After I have spent days painting a detailed camouflage scheme it is easy to ruin it in a second with a poorly applied wash. I tend to apply washes only to areas of detail where I want some contrast. Like around guns, portholes, and deck fittings. But many people prefer to apply the wash to the whole model. It is just a matter of taste. IJN ships that were just a solid gray tend to benefit the most from a 'whole ship' wash.
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| Sat Jul 04, 2009 4:04 pm |
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This is my "old school" method, and it does take a little practice. Not much, though.
1. Make your wash.
2. Load a clean brush with thinner and touch it to the areas you want to wash. Keep an eye on where the thinner goes, in case you need to add more or take some off.
3. Use a liner brush loaded with your wash to touch the areas you've prepped. Watch capillary action pull the wash into the crevices. Reload the brush with more wash as needed.
4. If you don't like the result, rinse and repeat. |
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| Sat Jul 04, 2009 11:37 pm |
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@wasp - Thanks for this tip! I would really like the paint to just stay in the cracks and crevices. Unfortunately, we don't have the Future brand floor polish that you mentioned. Are there other alternatives like soap or something?
@BattleshipOverKill and Snippersly - Thanks for the complement! Out of curiosity, how do you mix the color for rust? And where on the ship do I dry brush it on?
@drittal, MrKen, Okie, jfkziegler - Thank you for looking and the complements! It's nice to get the support of the community
@seisen - It's great to hear from you because I really really like how you wash your ships! But unfortunately, I don't think we have that floor polish here in our country. LOL And that tip on how to test the wash is great! I will definitely try that out! And I won't touch up next time.. I think I did it here 
@weedsrock - Yes you're right. I haven't tried doing camouflage schemes yet so I am still open to experimenting with the ships. LOL I will dab next time. I actually brushed it on this one.
@chesty - Interesting method! Do you have any pictures of what this wash looks like? Does it look different from ordinary paint/ink washing because of the thinner? |
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| Sun Jul 05, 2009 5:08 am |
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| secretsix wrote: | | @chesty - Interesting method! Do you have any pictures of what this wash looks like? Does it look different from ordinary paint/ink washing because of the thinner? |
I certainly do not, but it looks like... a wash. I guess I'll have to paint something and send it to someone who knows how to post pictures.
Also, if you're using water-based paint, tap-water works as thinner. |
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| Sun Jul 05, 2009 6:20 am |
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