Archive for Axis & Allies ForuMINI Specialised in the World War II Axis & Allies Miniatures and War At Sea Games          Axis & Allies ForuMINI Forum Index -> Dreadnought Rising Jesse_James WWI stat card feedback Tell me what you think. I think I have all the basic, but not too sure. Tell me what you think about the overall appearance of the card. triple entente Central powers Jesse_James FYI the cards are bigger because it is easier to work from and can see better, printable versions will be standared poker size. Task Force 57 its a good start old chap... lets run with this and see where it takes us (with any luck to The Falklands and dogger bank, two damn fine scraps with no Bl$#%#$%Y air or subs getting in the way). Jesse_James Task Force 57 wrote: its a good start old chap... But I'm not old   I stated a stat card on this British plane http://www.theaerodrome.com/aircraft/gbritain/sopwith_cuckoo.php My book says it never saw combat but was only several weeks away from a naval attack (war ended) Several squadrons have been practicing for the attack and believed it would have been successful. Though it never saw action I think it is in the same boat as the Graf Zeppelin.   Task Force 57 you found the grandfather of the swordfish, after the aborted torp attacks on the gobben and the rather "hit and miss" raids in the adriatic  proved the utility of torp aircraft the admiralty got funds from the Gov to get a good torp carrying strike aircraft that could be carried by the fleet. The result was a real gem that just missed the war... think about it! pearl harbour in miniature in 1918  with the raid on the uboat pens supported not just with block ships but a squ or two of Sopwith Ck's ... But... its after 1918 so you cant use em!!!! HA HA HA, those poor Air minded souls will have to settle for zeps and pups/camels/jasters dropping 25lb hand thrown bombs... hehehehe, how will the fans of the dauntless cope? Jesse_James For people who  put like but needs some changes it would help me if you post what changes. Pellaeon I think they look good overall, and they seem to have all the parts they need, assuming the rules for WW1 are not substantially different. If you've got stuff like more complicated movement (since ship positioning in order to "cross the T" is more relevant in WW1), then you'd need more than a single number for "speed", for example. Anyway, I can give you a few suggested tweaks... They're mostly designery, as I've had one too many design classes for my own good. I feel like the SAs won't get much space... though I'm not sure where you could get more vertical spacing from. It might help to see the card template with some generic values filled in. I don't know if its the sandy background or the thick borders on some of the content, but the cards are very high contrast... like the blank parts are really empty, and the content parts stand out a lot. Maybe a subtler color scheme? Change the sandy color to a blue or a grey? I'd also lose the drop shadows. You're using red and blue for the "axis" and "allies", respectively, but also blue for the range table. I think Wizards gets away with blue on blue on their cards, but it is probably a good idea to use a different color for the range table. Certainly doesn't have to be green though. I like that Wizards spells out "attacks" and "vital armor" and even "hull points", so I don't need to know any acronyms. If you have space to do the same, that'd be cool. Jesse_James I think they look good overall, and they seem to have all the parts they need, assuming the rules for WW1 are not substantially different. If you've got stuff like more complicated movement (since ship positioning in order to "cross the T" is more relevant in WW1), then you'd need more than a single number for "speed", for example. Don't know that much yet. If addition speed movement is needed I can add it. I feel like the SAs won't get much space... though I'm not sure where you could get more vertical spacing from. It might help to see the card template with some generic values filled in. Could be right little small I fix it up sooner or later. I don't know if its the sandy background or the thick borders on some of the content, but the cards are very high contrast... like the blank parts are really empty, and the content parts stand out a lot. Maybe a subtler color scheme? Change the sandy color to a blue or a grey? I'd also lose the drop shadows. I picked the sandy color which is actually antiqued paper for one reason, in request to ND's desire to have light colored cards which is more cost effective when printing than darker colors, in addition for those who want to print black and white dark prints better of light back ground than light prints off dark background, and again it is a cost thing as well. Studies have also shown that it is better for your eyes to read dark print off of a light surface. As for the empty spaces they are there for a reason, pictures, and nations symbols. You're using red and blue for the "axis" and "allies", respectively, but also blue for the range table. I think Wizards gets away with blue on blue on their cards, but it is probably a good idea to use a different color for the range table. Certainly doesn't have to be green though. I like that Wizards spells out "attacks" and "vital armor" and even "hull points", so I don't need to know any acronyms. If you have space to do the same, that'd be cool. Ahhhh good you already know what they are   No worries then. I could fix it though. lotharlutjens wwI stat cards I like it just fine Jesse, however, can you widen the columns in the range increments? If we go with facing, and I do think we should, It would become necessary to put 3 numbers in each column. One for fire directly ahead, one for fire to the broadside and one for firing directly astern. The wing turrets with their limited arcs make firepower to these different quarters vary from ship to ship, for instance the Moltke had 10x 11" guns in 5 twin turrets, one firing forward, one starboard foreward, one port astern and two astern. In effect she could gereally bring 4 x 11" guns to bear to the bow quadrant, 8 to the broadside and 6 to the rear. This assumes slight course deviation so that either wing turret can assist to the fore and aft. Lutjens  out Pellaeon Jesse_James wrote: I picked the sandy color which is actually antiqued paper for one reason, in request to ND's desire to have light colored cards which is more cost effective when printing than darker colors, in addition for those who want to print black and white dark prints better of light back ground than light prints off dark background, and again it is a cost thing as well. Studies have also shown that it is better for your eyes to read dark print off of a light surface. As for the empty spaces they are there for a reason, pictures, and nations symbols. That's a good point about printing, keeping the cards light is probably wise. As for being easy on the eyes, there isn't really much reading to be done on these cards, so light letters on a dark background is okay. The same logic applies for capitalization: all caps is hardest to read, but if it's just a short title, all caps is fine. For body text however, you are quite right: black text on white, plus sentence case, is best. But, the printing costs are definitely a good point, though I think contrast is still an issue... so I'd suggest lightening up the blues and reds, or really just putting a much lighter color behind the big range table. You might also then want to use less black, as it might become overpowering. ... and I swear I only knew "VA" was "Vital Armor" because I had my WaS cards in front of me!!   Jesse_James Re: wwI stat cards @ lotharlutjens I can extend the attack grid no problem (tomorrow anyway) I do like the facing idea and think it is neccesary for a game like this, and would add a bit more depth and tactics to it. Couple of Qs did Brazil have a navy fighting in WWI? asking because you can buy WWI ships from a company that makes 1/1240 (I think I have that scale correct) What terrain fetures could we have for just typical fun play? Shoals I know, and coostal lines, but would there be islands? maybe large onse in the Med.   hgraves i overall like it ! however i feel the contrast is a bit high as was previously stated. 1/1250 is a common "older" scale for warship models that are used in navel games by people that own a indoor basketball court to play in...my recomendation is stick to 1/2400 or smaller... lotharlutjens Yes Jesse off of the top of my head I know of two Dreadnoughts Brazil had in World War I, the Minas Gerias and the Sao Paulo. Built in England these ships were in the Brazilian Navy when Brazil declared war on Germany in 1917. I assume there were also lesser vessels but I can't recall their names or numbers. Lutjens   out Celt A fine start! A whole new crop of ships is forthcoming from my shipyard. I was asked to weigh in..."why" says more about my modding than my actual knowledge--but thanks. I will be more involved after classes settle and my other art prospects find some more solid ground. Modding was a nice reintegration to what I've neglected. Anywho... ...I'm really happy a WWI forum started up. This should be fun. (With all due respect to the Vets thereof)   Jesse_James The new cards swarbs Re: wwI stat cards lotharlutjens wrote: I like it just fine Jesse, however, can you widen the columns in the range increments? If we go with facing, and I do think we should, It would become necessary to put 3 numbers in each column. One for fire directly ahead, one for fire to the broadside and one for firing directly astern. The wing turrets with their limited arcs make firepower to these different quarters vary from ship to ship, for instance the Moltke had 10x 11" guns in 5 twin turrets, one firing forward, one starboard foreward, one port astern and two astern. In effect she could gereally bring 4 x 11" guns to bear to the bow quadrant, 8 to the broadside and 6 to the rear. This assumes slight course deviation so that either wing turret can assist to the fore and aft. Lutjens  out Please, keep facing in the game, but please keep me from having to figure out which of the three values I'm supposed to use.  Just put in a rule like 6's are only one success straight ahead or behind.  Or divide dice by two or have -1 per die or something, this makes it so much simpler.  Ships with unusual battery formations can just have SA's to reflect their status. Jesse_James Re: wwI stat cards swarbs wrote: Please, keep facing in the game, but please keep me from having to figure out which of the three values I'm supposed to use.  Just put in a rule like 6's are only one success straight ahead or behind.  Or divide dice by two or have -1 per die or something, this makes it so much simpler.  Ships with unusual battery formations can just have SA's to reflect their status. That is an interesting idea, and will take consideration into our rules. As stated I am not a WWI history buff and know liitle to no history on WWI Navies. But as far as simplicity goes that is a great idea, we could always poll it   Texas_Archer There could be an Sa that gives ships +1 dice when attacking with a main gun broadside, but suffer against torpedo attacks or something of that nature. maybe a torpedo hits on a 5 or 6 or something.  Bigger area, better chance of a torpedo hit, at least in theory...  This would also force the player to engage the destroyers and other smaller ships earlier, taking away from a BB to BB or BC to BC fight only. swarbs That's a possibility because torpedoes will certainly be much shorter range at least, though more powerful becuase of the lack of torpedo defense on the big ships. lotharlutjens If we go with 3 numbers they will be in this order, left to right, Bow/Broadside/Stern. It is really not that complicated, you won't have to do any math, and best of all, if you don't want to bother with facing, Wow! You don't have to. It will be the middle number you can use, which in almost all cases will be abundantly clear because it will be so much larger in value then the other two numbers, and play it just like WAS. I realize you could just go with the way the original war at sea works and then just halve the number of dice thrown if not firing a broadside, or some other such way of handling it, but you would lose so much of the uniqueness of these World War I vessels because so many of then had these strange (by world war II standards) firing arrangements to their turrets. Lutjens   out NeuralDream Let's see a first card with different facing values and 2-3 S.A.s to see what we are talking about. It will be easier if we debate on something visible. http://aaminis.myfastforum.org/sutra73003.php Texas Grognard Howdy y'all! I've been looking over the WWI thread and I've been very impressed with the dedication and passion of all participants. Lothar I have some info on the Kaiserliche Marine's Light and Armored Cruisers. I'll bring it the next time I see you. Jesse I like the card format but if you can mute the the blue and red colors on the cards it would better portray the vintage feel your trying to present. Otherwise they are spot on.   Salut y'all lotharlutjens FYI Texasgrognard has a degree in history, his specialty is "Texas History" but he's darn near as good with Military history. I've known him for about 20 years. It was he who pointed me out to this web-site. He is having some health issues this last year but if he will come aboard he will be a valuable asset to this project.        Axis & Allies ForuMINI Forum Index -> Dreadnought Rising Page 1 of 1